1985 Accord-Manual trans questions(bad clutch etc)
#1
1985 Accord-Manual trans questions(bad clutch etc)
Questions at the bottom if you want to skip the explanation
85' Accord, with just over 150k miles. The car has lost power, and the clutch is slipping worse and worse now. (I am not too familiar with transmission details, I may get some things wrong while explaining-So i believe the clutch is slipping is the right expression) While shifting into first gear, theres a short amount of time now that the car gets into gear. Meaning that I'll be shifting into first and letting off the clutch and it'll grip soon and without the clutch being released all the way. The rest of the gears, 2-3-4-5 pretty much just slip into gear without feeling too much of a grab on the clutch, it jerks the car slightly.
Augh, sorry for not being explanatory enough. Really I just think the clutch is nearly gone, and I dont want to damage the flywheel so I am going to park it quickly and as soon as possible before anything gets damaged.
MY ACTUAL QUESTIONS-
-Is the clutch the actual problem, and is about to give out?
-Do I need to drop the tranny to replace the clutch, pressure plate, and bearing?
-If i do need to drop the tranny, what tools am I going to absolutely need to get the job done?
I am mechanically inclined but do NOT go into anything unprepared. I have never touched transmissions before, and need some help.
Thank you guys.
85' Accord, with just over 150k miles. The car has lost power, and the clutch is slipping worse and worse now. (I am not too familiar with transmission details, I may get some things wrong while explaining-So i believe the clutch is slipping is the right expression) While shifting into first gear, theres a short amount of time now that the car gets into gear. Meaning that I'll be shifting into first and letting off the clutch and it'll grip soon and without the clutch being released all the way. The rest of the gears, 2-3-4-5 pretty much just slip into gear without feeling too much of a grab on the clutch, it jerks the car slightly.
Augh, sorry for not being explanatory enough. Really I just think the clutch is nearly gone, and I dont want to damage the flywheel so I am going to park it quickly and as soon as possible before anything gets damaged.
MY ACTUAL QUESTIONS-
-Is the clutch the actual problem, and is about to give out?
-Do I need to drop the tranny to replace the clutch, pressure plate, and bearing?
-If i do need to drop the tranny, what tools am I going to absolutely need to get the job done?
I am mechanically inclined but do NOT go into anything unprepared. I have never touched transmissions before, and need some help.
Thank you guys.
#2
1985 has a cable clutch (OK you probably knew that)
Are you saying the clutch engages too close to the floor? If so, that's probably not a worn (slipping) clutch. More likely a stretched cable. I'm not real familiar with the cable-adjuster so can't help too much. There's a few guys here with 1980-something Accords so hope they'll chime in. Good news is that's all outside so you don't need to remove the trans.
A slipping clutch would be described like this... The clutch engages higher & higher off the floor (clutch pedal position, that is). Eventually it gets where the clutch slips - RPM rises but car doesn't accelerate. This happens most in the higher gears. Imagine you were accelerating or climbing a hill. Begin pressing down the clutch pedal and you'll reach a point where the RPM jumps. Slipping clutch is exactly like that, except it happens without pressing the pedal.
If you need to replace the actual clutch (not just the cable) then YES you need to remove the trans.
Are you saying the clutch engages too close to the floor? If so, that's probably not a worn (slipping) clutch. More likely a stretched cable. I'm not real familiar with the cable-adjuster so can't help too much. There's a few guys here with 1980-something Accords so hope they'll chime in. Good news is that's all outside so you don't need to remove the trans.
A slipping clutch would be described like this... The clutch engages higher & higher off the floor (clutch pedal position, that is). Eventually it gets where the clutch slips - RPM rises but car doesn't accelerate. This happens most in the higher gears. Imagine you were accelerating or climbing a hill. Begin pressing down the clutch pedal and you'll reach a point where the RPM jumps. Slipping clutch is exactly like that, except it happens without pressing the pedal.
If you need to replace the actual clutch (not just the cable) then YES you need to remove the trans.
#3
I'm with Jim-not really sure if it is too close to the floor OR too close to the top?If you can answer this and Jim's other questions that will help.
If it turns out the cable needs adjusting I can give pointers on adjusting the cable (I have two 3rd gens with 5 spd)....had an 81 and 85, that was a while ago but I know they were about the same as the 3rd gen's I have now. In fact I just did this about 3~4 weeks ago on my (the boy drives it but I own it) 89 LXi. The prev owner had the clutch replaced 10~15K ago but the cable was adjusted too tight-meaning the engagement point was way too high.
If it turns out the cable needs adjusting I can give pointers on adjusting the cable (I have two 3rd gens with 5 spd)....had an 81 and 85, that was a while ago but I know they were about the same as the 3rd gen's I have now. In fact I just did this about 3~4 weeks ago on my (the boy drives it but I own it) 89 LXi. The prev owner had the clutch replaced 10~15K ago but the cable was adjusted too tight-meaning the engagement point was way too high.
#4
Oh I see then. Well good to know. (and yes I did know it was a cable clutch, but just as of 2 days ago-hah)
So, here's what it is:
The clutch IS engaging to close to the floor.
Poorman212-you have the help I need then, on how to adjust this cable properly?
So, here's what it is:
The clutch IS engaging to close to the floor.
Poorman212-you have the help I need then, on how to adjust this cable properly?
#6
Well I took a look at the cable, and saw that it looked fine. But I did notice that between the cable linkage where it connects to the next linkage with the rubber stopper that holds out debris and what not inbetween both the linkage connections, has space where the cable is visible about 2 inches, and the rubber is not covering it until the clutch pedal is pressed down. Maybe that is a sign that the cable needs to be adjusted?
#8
Contrary to g22cd5 comment, monthly adjustment is not needed, if so something else is going on. In the 86 (I sold it years ago) I adjusted it when I put the clutch in and put just over 100K on it without ever needing to touch it...but let's get to the issue at hand.
Don't worry with/about the boot around the cable. The important thing is the slack or lack of at the end where the cable connects to the "lever" going into the trans. Your description is one of too much slack. There should be about 1/2 to 1 inch "free play" at/on the clutch pedal. Turn the plastic nut (at the end of the cable by the trans), again by your description you will be turning it clockwise. Word of advise, make small adjustments-1/2 to 1 turn of that nut- and recheck. Get the freeplay and engagement point right and enjoy...hope the description helps. A good book, or check the DIY for a manual you can download will go into more detail.
Don't worry with/about the boot around the cable. The important thing is the slack or lack of at the end where the cable connects to the "lever" going into the trans. Your description is one of too much slack. There should be about 1/2 to 1 inch "free play" at/on the clutch pedal. Turn the plastic nut (at the end of the cable by the trans), again by your description you will be turning it clockwise. Word of advise, make small adjustments-1/2 to 1 turn of that nut- and recheck. Get the freeplay and engagement point right and enjoy...hope the description helps. A good book, or check the DIY for a manual you can download will go into more detail.
#9
I see two ways this can be figured, so I should be able to press down my clutch, about 1/2 inch to 1 inch before the cable actually is pulling the lever? Or is it that the clutch should be fully depressed and then I should let up on the clutch slightly to see how many inches it takes before the cable engages the lever... Which is it? Sounds like I'll need 2 people for this as well.
#10
"I should be able to press down my clutch, about 1/2 inch to 1 inch before the cable actually is pulling the lever"-yes. At the top, the freeplay at the top-just as you start to push the pedal. By the book and would need two people.
Or to make it more confusing-my way. NOT BY THE BOOK so use at your own risk, gave the "official answer first".
Pull up on the cable, above the plastic nut, you should be able to pull it about 1/8 ~1/4 inch before the slack is gone. If more than that (again by your descrption you have too much) tighten the nut a 1/2 to 1 turn, release. Check/pull again-or get in, crank it up and see how/where it engages..I did this (by myself) about a month ago on the 89 LXi I just bought in Nov, took three trys before I had it right. I'd adjust, crank it up, check, repeat until I was happy with it.
EDIT: Point of ref-as you tighten that nut the engagement point raises. As you loosen it the point gets closer to the floor. I suggest you tighten as your description stated it was too close to the floor.--just wanted to add this for anyone else who might read this-their issue maybe different. I adjusted the 89 because the engagement was too high, so I had to loosen mine.
Or to make it more confusing-my way. NOT BY THE BOOK so use at your own risk, gave the "official answer first".
Pull up on the cable, above the plastic nut, you should be able to pull it about 1/8 ~1/4 inch before the slack is gone. If more than that (again by your descrption you have too much) tighten the nut a 1/2 to 1 turn, release. Check/pull again-or get in, crank it up and see how/where it engages..I did this (by myself) about a month ago on the 89 LXi I just bought in Nov, took three trys before I had it right. I'd adjust, crank it up, check, repeat until I was happy with it.
EDIT: Point of ref-as you tighten that nut the engagement point raises. As you loosen it the point gets closer to the floor. I suggest you tighten as your description stated it was too close to the floor.--just wanted to add this for anyone else who might read this-their issue maybe different. I adjusted the 89 because the engagement was too high, so I had to loosen mine.
Last edited by poorman212; 01-19-2011 at 07:24 PM.