1989 Accord LXi dies while driving below 1/2 tank
#1
Unregistered
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1989 Accord LXi dies while driving below 1/2 tank
Bought my daughter a 1989 Accord with 160,000 miles for her first car. Great little car. Just shifts a little hard.
However, started dying at stops below a 1/2 tank of gas. Local mechanic couldn't diagnose. Then check engine light came on. EGR valve. Had it replaced and just got it back. Drove to below 1/2 tank to see what would happen. Started dying when stopping and oil light will flash on/off.
Starts right back up but wants to die at stop signs/lights. Once you fill it up, no problems.
Neighbor said it might be the gas cap if it's not original. Have seen where it might be fuel pump or filter. Have NOT tried those.
She loves the car. I'm looking for answers.
Also, what's the normal price for transmission replacement?
However, started dying at stops below a 1/2 tank of gas. Local mechanic couldn't diagnose. Then check engine light came on. EGR valve. Had it replaced and just got it back. Drove to below 1/2 tank to see what would happen. Started dying when stopping and oil light will flash on/off.
Starts right back up but wants to die at stop signs/lights. Once you fill it up, no problems.
Neighbor said it might be the gas cap if it's not original. Have seen where it might be fuel pump or filter. Have NOT tried those.
She loves the car. I'm looking for answers.
Also, what's the normal price for transmission replacement?
#2
The idle speed may be too low when fully warmed leading to stalling and this might also cause oil warning light (too low engine speed for adequate oil pressure). You should have an oil pressure check to be sure oil pressure is adequate at idle and 3K rpm.
If this is a carbuerated vehicle, I would check choke plate position and check for full choke plate opening when warm. Also check throttle plate position at idle. There may be an idle stop solenoid that is not supporting the throttle plate idle position. This is designed to prevent shut-down dieseling by cutting off air. You will need a shop manual. Check autozone.com for some guidance.
If this is a fuel injected car, check the idle air control valve, throttle plate, and bore for oil/dirt build up.
good luck
If this is a carbuerated vehicle, I would check choke plate position and check for full choke plate opening when warm. Also check throttle plate position at idle. There may be an idle stop solenoid that is not supporting the throttle plate idle position. This is designed to prevent shut-down dieseling by cutting off air. You will need a shop manual. Check autozone.com for some guidance.
If this is a fuel injected car, check the idle air control valve, throttle plate, and bore for oil/dirt build up.
good luck
#4
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water in the tank
It could be water in your fuel tank.
It happened to my old 87 Mazda 626 and I experienced the same symptoms you're describing. Areas of the funnel just behind the gas cap rusted out and allowed moisture to accumulate in the tank over the years so it always choked at stop lights when the tank was less than 1/3 full. Had to shift to neutral and rev it up to keep the car running while waiting for lights. Since you're having problems based on the amount of fuel in the tank, I don't think it's related to the idle speed, but then again I'm not a mechanic.
Good luck fixing it.
It happened to my old 87 Mazda 626 and I experienced the same symptoms you're describing. Areas of the funnel just behind the gas cap rusted out and allowed moisture to accumulate in the tank over the years so it always choked at stop lights when the tank was less than 1/3 full. Had to shift to neutral and rev it up to keep the car running while waiting for lights. Since you're having problems based on the amount of fuel in the tank, I don't think it's related to the idle speed, but then again I'm not a mechanic.
Good luck fixing it.
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