1989 EXi Engine light troubles. Idling high.
#1
1989 EXi Engine light troubles. Idling high.
I just bought an 89 Accord, manual, and fuel injected 4 door, and it runs really good. The guy that sold it said the engine light might come on every so often from an automatic choke that sometimes will stick open, turning the car off and restarting it would reset the engine light and it would be good after that.
Well so far it seems true enough but I get the engine light warning quiet a lot. Sure enough turning the car off and on will make the light turn off but sometimes it lasts maybe a minute and comes back on, other times I can get it to stay off for a 45 minute drive. Once in a while when I try to restart it it will not start right away, and also sometimes kind of sputter to a start and almost stall out as it tries to find it's idle.
I idles fairly smooth around 750 rpm once it's warmed up, but when the engine light comes on the idle sits at 1200-1500 rpm's.
So any ideas as to what it can be, I can't find any info on a automatic choke in a fuel injected car. Maybe it's the fuel filter?
Is there anyway to manually read the codes from the engine light?
Well so far it seems true enough but I get the engine light warning quiet a lot. Sure enough turning the car off and on will make the light turn off but sometimes it lasts maybe a minute and comes back on, other times I can get it to stay off for a 45 minute drive. Once in a while when I try to restart it it will not start right away, and also sometimes kind of sputter to a start and almost stall out as it tries to find it's idle.
I idles fairly smooth around 750 rpm once it's warmed up, but when the engine light comes on the idle sits at 1200-1500 rpm's.
So any ideas as to what it can be, I can't find any info on a automatic choke in a fuel injected car. Maybe it's the fuel filter?
Is there anyway to manually read the codes from the engine light?
#2
Check the code.
Under the driver's seat is the engine control unit (ECU), and the ECU has a glass window with a light. When you turn the key to the II position (don't try to start the car), the ecu light will flash a certain number number of times (0-13), the pause for two seconds, then flash the next code (or repeat the first one).
I think that you will have to slide the driver's seat all the way back to see the ECU. Post the code that you read.
Under the driver's seat is the engine control unit (ECU), and the ECU has a glass window with a light. When you turn the key to the II position (don't try to start the car), the ecu light will flash a certain number number of times (0-13), the pause for two seconds, then flash the next code (or repeat the first one).
I think that you will have to slide the driver's seat all the way back to see the ECU. Post the code that you read.
#3
Just to add. Slide the seat forward, like a very short driver. There is a plastic cover over the ECU under the seat. There is a "panel" that you will have to open, pull from the top. Once you have that open you will see the little red led light.
#5
Thanks for the help guys!
Flashing code 6.
Another thing that seems to trigger the engine light is after I shift to 5th gear for hwy speeds. I can keep it from coming on long if I let it warm up nicely before and after work, now the light will be on and idling smoothly at 1200-1500 rpm so I turn off for a minute and start it back up idle drops to around 750 and I'm good to go, but I still drive as smoothly as possible, as driving hard seems to have a better chance of triggering the light. Today it happily reved home at 3000 rpm's in 4th without the light coming on later on the commute.
Did some googling and found that code 6 should be engine coolant temp sensor. If this is true, whats with the idling speed changing because of the coolant temp?
Flashing code 6.
Another thing that seems to trigger the engine light is after I shift to 5th gear for hwy speeds. I can keep it from coming on long if I let it warm up nicely before and after work, now the light will be on and idling smoothly at 1200-1500 rpm so I turn off for a minute and start it back up idle drops to around 750 and I'm good to go, but I still drive as smoothly as possible, as driving hard seems to have a better chance of triggering the light. Today it happily reved home at 3000 rpm's in 4th without the light coming on later on the commute.
Did some googling and found that code 6 should be engine coolant temp sensor. If this is true, whats with the idling speed changing because of the coolant temp?
Last edited by ninjadog; 03-18-2011 at 09:09 PM.
#7
If the ecu "thinks" the engine is cold or isn't getting a reading then it idles high, just like on a cold morning when you first start the car.
#8
code 6
I agree with the prior replies to your code 6. I think you need to check all vacuum lines also . 3 mm will be the size mostly. Look under the intake etc. Due to the age of your Honda, no doubt some are cracked, broken, and petrified. A bad vacuum connection can cause drivability problems. Some more than others. A nice telescoping mirror and flashlight are a must for me when inspecting vacuum issues. Good Luck.
#9
Checked the leads, they were fine.
So went out and bought the temp sensor at NAPA for $35, as opposed to the $80 one at the dealership.
Took out the old one and it was beat to hell, installed the new one and no more engine light. It runs almost perfect now.
Thanks for the help guys.
So went out and bought the temp sensor at NAPA for $35, as opposed to the $80 one at the dealership.
Took out the old one and it was beat to hell, installed the new one and no more engine light. It runs almost perfect now.
Thanks for the help guys.
#10
Great to hear.....I like seeing another 3rd gen back on the road
Edit: If it was "beat up" then I might ask of you've flushed/drained the coolant lately? It is 20 something years old, if you are not sure...it wouldn't hurt.
Edit: If it was "beat up" then I might ask of you've flushed/drained the coolant lately? It is 20 something years old, if you are not sure...it wouldn't hurt.
Last edited by poorman212; 03-23-2011 at 10:51 PM.
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