I have a 1992 Accord LX with only 60k miles that abruptly dies about once a week while driving normally on smooth roads and it doesn't restart until 1 to 24 hours later. This has occurred across multiple tanks of gas and when it runs it does so flawlessly immediately before and after the no-start periods and there are no other symptoms or clues or warning lights on the dash. The car has no electrical or fuel related problem history except a distributor that needed new bearings 10k miles ago but that was really a mechanical issue. Re-seating the ECU fuse didn't help any and all the wire connectors under the hood are well seated. I have a lot of tools, do-it-yourself aptitude, and a multi-meter but don't know how to test for spark when ignition voltage greatly exceeds what a typical multi-meter measures.

Flummoxed,

Nathan

 

When no-start condition is presented, try a couple of simple tests.

1) Turn keyswitch to On and listen carefully in quiet conditions for fuel pump to come on and run for 3 secs, and cut off. If no fuel pump sound, then Main Fuel Relay or faulty fuel pump.

2) If fuel pump comes on every time keyswitch is turned to On, but no-start condition persists, try injecting a bit of throttle body cleaner or starter fluid into air intake (remove air filter upper housing). Spray 5-10 secs of fluid, and attempt to start. If no-start persists, then no spark condition is likely; coil most likely since you have an external coil (I think!) and you've replaced distributor which contains ignitor.

good luck

 

I agree with testing for fuel but I'd still want to verify spark as well.

As stated, when the happens test for fuel.

Some good reading here for fuel and spark : Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to

If it does not, test for spark. Kind of hard to do on the road alone, a spark tester would be the best to use.

poor way, use at your own risk.......you can get a spark plug and some tape. Pull a plug wire and tape it sideways to the valve cover or some other ground source in such a way that from inside the car as you try to start you can try to "see" the spark.

 

Yea you need to figure out if it is fuel or spark that is cutting out. Google 'HEI spark tester'. They are like 8 bucks.

When the car won't start pop the hood, pull a wire off a plug (I always use the longest one) then attach the tester and clip it to a ground. If you can see the bottom side of the tester u might be able to see a spark in daylight. If you can't see it you need to listen.

After getting the tester set up get I. The car and crank the engine. Listen for a snap.....snap.....snap..... It's faint but if the engine is generating spark then you will hear it / see it when it is dark....

If there is spark it's a fuel issue, if there is no spark then it's an ignition issue.

 

Unfortunately the car started before I could do any troubleshooting. The problem is intermittent which is the worst kind because you can't easily diagnose a running car!

I did notice in one of the incidents that the tach needle abruptly went to zero even though I could hear the engine still being driven by the wheels as the RPMs fell. I am sure this is an electrical problem. Also, in the earlier more mild stages of the problem months ago I could usually restart the car if I turned it off (key removal position) but not when I merely turned the key clockwise again. Also, the distributor repair was probably just bearings and we should not assume the igniter was replaced. I am leaning towards some kind of fundamental relay that supplies power to the ignition system.

 

Sounds like you have a main relay that is going out. The main relay contains two individual relays. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, which supplies battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
I know that on these older accords and civics when the main relay gets hot, the solder joints will lose connection and the car will die and not restart only turn over until it cools down. The main relay is easy to replace and doesn't really cost a lot. It's located under the steering column. I believe on your accord its a rectangle box that's brown or gray in color. You can look it up on YouTube.
Try this, next time it dies on you while driving and will not restart, tap on the main relay then try to start. Sometimes this works. I've seen this many times on older accords/civics.

 

I just ordered a remanufactured main relay for $25 after shipping. I think I found it in below picture I took.

 

That's it.

Two easiest ways to remove; separate red base from housing (retainers on each side) or remove bracket from body (single 6mm bolt).

Trying to separate the gray housing from bracket is very difficult.

Unless you notice that fuel pump is not turninig on when keyswitch turns to On, main fuel relay is unlikely to fix your problem.

Ignition switch assy sounds more likely from your description.

good luck

 

If it is the ignition switch then you would be able to start it back up. You can check the ignition switch by tapping the key or jiggle it with out turning it which the car is running. If your car stumbles or dies, then it would be the ignition switch.

 

PM to Nathan - NW