You jump 1-2 or 3-4. There are only two wires going to that connector, so look inside to see which ones have the metal female connector. You should also be able to tell by looking from the back of the connector.

Two of the holes have nothing in them.

 

Kristen the pics you have is indeed the right jumper harness, and as PAhonda stated just use a paperclip to jump the two with connectors. then turn ur key to the on position and count the flashes from the Check Engine light.

 

I CANT BELIEVE I WAS ABLE TO DO IT!!!! NEXT PROBLEM- THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DOES NOT FLASH AT ALL BUT STAYS ON...IT TURNS OFF WHEN I REMOVE THE PAPER CLIP. I WITHOUT JUMPING THE THING, TURNED THE KEY TO 2 POSITION AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON FOR A COUPLE OF SEC THEN TURNED OFF LIKE ITS SUPPOSED TO DO RIGHT? SO AGAIN I PAPER CLIPED THE THING AND TURNED KEY TO 2 POSITTION, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON WITH NO BLINKING...I REMOVED PAPER CLIP AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF.... SO NOW WHAT? THANKS WHAT WOULD I DO WITHOUT U GUYS?!

 

That's how it's supposed to behave when there are no stored error codes.

 

great all that work and nothing!! IS THAT GOOD OR BAD THAT THERE ARE NO STORED CODES? BUT COULD IT BE BECAUSE I HAD THE BATTERY DISCONNECTED FOR A DAY? so now what do I try? I have to get this car fixed before june 26 cuz im being evicted and I don't want it to get towed and don't have money to pay a repair shop. WHAT DO I DO NEXT?

 

Where is everybody?! No error code---so whats the next step guys?

 

Try to start the car. If the battery is charged, the starter will spin the engine at the normal speed. If the engine will not fire up, then maybe a code got stored. After you try to start the car, keep the battery connected, and recheck the codes. Post any codes (or the no codes like you posted earlier) on here. The check engine light and the S light can flash codes, so keep that in mine.

Lets assume that when the fuel pump turns on, it is actually pumping enough fuel. If not, then the fuel pump will be an expensive fix (I would guess around $500 from a shop).

That means that you either have a spark or a compression problem. I always suggest changing the maintenance items. That would be the spark plugs. Only use NGK brand and the NGK part is ZFR5F-11. Most auto parts stores have them and they are about $2 each (so a $6 repair).

What kind of tools do you have access to? Do you have a basic socket/wrench set? How about a volt meter?

 

Tools--I have a hammer, a star screw driver and a straight screwdriver, a wrench(that's what the neighbor called it) and that's it. But my ex is coming over tomorrow with my daughter-haven't spoke to them in over a year-and im gonna pass all this info on to him and ill let u know the outcome. He used to fix my other Honda all the time.

 

Was the car running fine before and then this trouble? How long (months / miles) was it starting and running right?
How old is the battery? You replace it ever? Look on battery for date sticker if there's one.
How strong / fast is the engine cranking sound when you try to start? Is it weak and slow or fast and confident sounding?
I suppose you don't have a VoltMeter? That could really help certain questions here.
Could be drained battery, battery can't take a full charge anymore.
1990 - is that fuel injected or carb?
(If not FI and carbed has vehicle sat and not run for more than 1-2 months?)

 

Mystery solved----ignition coil! Car is running and starts right up- got the part for $69 + tax at oreileys and my mans friend did it in like 1/2 hour for only $20! But thanks to all u who put so much into trying to help a girl that knows nothing about cars. And thanks for your patience... Hope i dont need u guys soon--i mean hope my car doesnt have another problem soon. But if it does- this will b the first place i come to!