I have a 1990 with the 2.2 that suddenly died one day. It will start just fine, go to the high start RPMs and then drop down straight to dead. No amount of throttle can keep it running. After an extensive search I figured it had to be the Ignition Control Module so I grabbed one and put it in the distributor, and it worked... for about 2 days and it did the same thing again. This time I noticed that if I bumped to the start position the RPMs would raise again and I could keep it going a second or two longer. Holding the key in the on position does not keep it from dying, only if I engage the starter again. Jiggling the key does not change anything. Oddly, I got it to stay running for a bit if I could get it into gear fast enough, but it would run very rough like it had a misfire. I replaced the entire distributor hoping that it was a bad coil, but that did not resolve the problem either. I have not read these specific set of symptoms anywhere, so any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Fax

 

Check your engine and transmission computer for codes. I believe on the 90 accord, you can pull back the passenger carpet. The ECU and TCU have a window where you can see a light flashing. With the key in the II position, you should be able to count any codes. A long blink = 10, short =1, so LLLSS = code 32.

You didn't say if this was an automatic or manual transmission, so a manual transmission won't have a TCU.

Also, was any work done previously on this car?

 

I will pull codes tonight. No work was done previously. I live by "check the last thing you dicked with first"

 

Code 12

 

A code 12 is the ECU detecting improper lift on the EGR valve. The electronic part of the egr valve just sends the lift to the ECU. The vacuum line controls the opening/closing of the valve. It is possible the valve is stuck open or that the vacuum control is not working and sending vacuum to the EGR valve at all times.

Most people would replace the EGR valve with a code 12, but this is a mistake. You can do some simple troubleshooting first to determine the problem.

The quickest test is to disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve, and plug the vacuum hose. Start the car and see if it stays running.

If you have a vacuum gauge, you can see if you have vacuum on that hose when the engine is cold and at idle. The vacuum hose should not have vacuum under those conditions. I'm pretty sure the EGR valve should not get vacuum at idle ever.

 

No change after disconnecting/ plugging the vacuum tube on the egr.

 

I recommend removing the EGR valve and seeing if the valve is stuck open. You may want to clean any carbon buildup that would restrict movement.

One of the 2 bolts is a bit of a pain to access. I recommend using a 6-point socket with wobbly extensions, because using a boxed wrench risks rounding off the nut. Guess how I know?

 

I got some carb cleaner and have some break cleaner and will tackle this tonight. Thanks for the guidance!

 

EGR is clean and moving freely (could still be something wrong with the electronic portion). Zero change in the symptoms. There has to be something that drops the rpms after you start it that is just cutting off instead of dropping it to the normal idle.

 

I also tightened down and then backed off the FICV. No change.