Start in the back of the trunk. Under the carpet in the trunk near the back seat, you have a metal cover with a 3-pin connector. One of the wires will be a thicker yellow wire (or maybe yellow with black stripe). Back probe the yellow wire with your test light hooked to a good ground (any bare metal bolt). Turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. That test light should turn on for about 2 seconds during the time the check engine light does the bulb check. When you turn the key to start the car, that light should remain on when starting and when the engine runs.

The other test is to unplug the electrical connector to one of your injectors. Each injector has 2 wires, where one wire color is the same on all 4 injectors. Test for power on the wire with the common color (red or red/blk) with the key in the II position and engine not running and while trying to start the car.

Let us know what you find, because the next steps will be based on your first tests.

 

The fuel pump is what is shutting off. The injectors are getting their power while the key is on. I feel like we are getting somewhere, thank you so much.

 

Just to be clear, the yellow wire lost power at the fuel pump?

Next you are gong to do the same power test on 2 wires coming out of the main fuel relay. You will test the yel wire for power and also the blk/yel wire next to it on the same row.

The wire numbers on the relay connector are :
2 x 6 8
1 3 5 7

7 should be yellow. 5 is the blk/yel. You should be able to do this by touching the back of the wire on the relay with it still plugged in.

The main relay is above the cruise control unit under the dash on the driver's side. See the video below for the location. You should just have to remove the cruise control unit to do this test. You can also unbolt the relay if testing is easier. Just make sure to keep the relay plugged in.

 

Yellow - Does the same thing as at the fuel pump. ON at start, then off and then the car dies.
Black - on at position 2 and stays on.

 

what about the blk/yel or yel/blk next to the yellow wire at position 5?

 

Sorry, the yellow referenced above is 7, it turns off after a couple seconds after the crank.

On 5 the light comes on and stays on whith the key in the 2 position.

 

If that wire at #5 had power when cranking, then the main relay is the culprit.

You could have a bad/cracked solder joint that you can fix if you know how to solder. If not, you can replace.

 

I will see if I can grab one on the way home and report back here!

 

FIXED!!! Thank you so much! Right on time, tomorrow is the first day of senior year. I am going to tear into the old one and see if I can find a broken solder joint. I think i am going to add wires and plugs just so i know everything is all good. She got some good preventative medicine during this ordeal.

 

Glad it is fixed.

If the wires are the OEM honda wires, then inspect for obvious signs of worn rubber insulation. If they look good, don't replace. Honda wires seem to last forever. Only replace with Honda or NGK wires.