well the only idle screw i found doesnt move, its under the throttle. its rusted.i'm going to get plugs and wires and cap now, but i need to check the system doesnt have any air pockets. do that tonight when i put the new stuff on in a few. as far as the plug on the thermostate goes, justtake screw out till fluid comes out? or take it out and turn caron? what the process.i'm not sure what a throttle bore is or throttle plate. the throttle cable has just a touch of slack, just enough to keep tention off it. going to get parts now. thanks

 

with that bleed screw just start the car up and open that screw just a couple of turns (don't remove it completely) and wait for a little coolant to seep out, close it, let the car get all the way up to temp so the thermostat opens and then crack that screw open again so a little seeps out and you should be free from air, if that screw is rusty, spray some WD-40 on it and let it sit for a second... be sure you get a cap and rotor

 

Throttle plate is the valve that the throttle linkage rotates. Throttle bore is inside passage of throttle body.

The idle adjustment bleed screw is on top side of throttle body at the entrance where the duct attaches. It's under three vacuum lines.

Is the Check Engine Light on? W/ the IACV disconnected, you should have at least one code set. There may be others.

good luck

 

wow, so much info, thanks to everyone. i need to run through all of them tomorrow and get this baby running smoooth. sorry bout the language sir_nasty. well got new cap, wires and plugs this evening but was dark, so tomorrow i'm going to get all this done or alteast what i can make sense off. i need to also take the intake off and clean all thatthorttlestuff up too it seems. guess gasoline and a toothbrush will do? starter fluid maybe?. wish i could afford to pay myself for fixing my own car. ordered acatback this evening to complete theheaders and collector pipe.so thats cool. thanks again. wish me luck, we'll get it.

 

Good luck. Yeah, the throttle bore is the big hole where the air goes in. The throttle plate is the big disk that opens & closes across the bore. Sometimes crud builds up where the plate closes against the bore. That causes the throttle to stick just a little bit open.

Little slack in the cable is good.

Just in case anyone has messed with the mechanical stop for the throttle, it should not hold the throttle open. Only just enough to prevent the throttle plate from wedging stuck in the bore.

After you check all that stuff, here's more detail about the procedure.
Warm up the engine completely.
Turn off all loads.
Unplug electrical connection to IACV.
Setidle to600-700 rpm using idle screw above throttle bore.
Turn off, plug IACV back in.
Disconnect battery to reset your ECU.
Start engine, without touching the gas pedal.
Let it idle for 10 minutes without touching gas pedal.
(this allows the ECU to learn the behavior of the cleanedIACV)

edit - sometime before you do this, check that your spark timing is set correctly.

 

ok, here goes. i put on the new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. there was oil all over the middle of the plugs. not the tops, and not the spark part, but everywhere else. quite a bit.that didnt help. than i bleed the air in the system at the thermostatelike told, and that didnt help. after that i took off the intake and it looked like the throttle paddle thing inside the body, was sticking. so i thought, adjusted that and still no luck. after that i reset my iacv as directed, and still no luck. so i drive it around the block, and the major problem seems to be that the when the cars in gear, it idles high and holdes high. when it idels in nutural its fine. sound a little shakey maybe. maybe not. but it stays at about 800. its when i try to drive it, it starts the automatic reving on its own. anotehr thing i wondered, was when i took off the intake, there was a hole in the inside back of the throttlebody, that had a huge vacume on it when i gave it gas. is that hole supposed to be so loud it sounds like a tiny turbo. it makes a kinda loud whip noise. hard to explain. also, there's a tube that comes off the gear box(i guess its called) where the shifter and cluch cables attach to tranny to shift it, its just sitting there and it blows some sort of fluid on the intake after time. other than that, maybe its the distributor. myabe something cheaper i hope. i hope i didnt buy a lemon. feedback? thanks, eric

 

Oil in spark plugs...
There's round seals (part of valve cover gasket) that can leak oil down into the sparkplug tubes. I think there's a DIY about this over in the DIY forum.

It's possible that your IACV has gone bad, not just dirty. Sometimes they do that...

Throttle plate was sticking, you fixed it, good.

Check out hondaautomotiveparts.com, put in your car's info, look at the parts pictures. You want to verify that all your vacuum hoses and water hosesare going where they should. Check out...
intake manifold
throttle body
water hoses

Here's throttlebody. Check/cleanout the fast-idle valve #8. That whistling hole supplies air to your IACV (#15)and your FITV (#8). One or the other isn't closing like it should.



Find the idle adjustment screw (#1). If you can't find it, maybe it's MIA and that's the hole you're talking about??

I'll have to see what that tranny vent line is all about. Trannys have air vents, but they're not supposed to dump fluid out. Here's the tranny case, I think #5 is a rubber cap on the vent tube.

 

yeah, i thought maybe the FITV was bad or something. cuase thats where the noice was comming from. so i guess i can take it off and clean it. it looked like the screws where comming from the inside, and its about 3 inches from teh firewall, so getting to it that way will be hard. i need to take a better look tomorrow. the idel adjustment screw, if its what i think it is(next to the three vaccume lines that go into the intake), i tired to turn it today, and did so succefully, but the idel didnt go down, or so it didnt seem to.(did it when i disconnected teh IACV to reset it) but when i disconnected it, the engine's idle kept going up and down, up and down, and so on. so maybe it did work. or is it on the inside of the throttle body? cant tell by the pic. and yeah, thats teh tube on the tranny, looks like all it needs is a plug. sould i be worried if oil leaked into where the spark plugs go when i swiched them? it ran fine for a while after i did all these tricksof the trade today. thanks, Eric

 

so basicly the FITV going bad or being dirty can cause this problem? do that tomorrow, atleast.

 

ok, here goes. i put on the new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. there was oil all over the middle of the plugs. not the tops, and not the spark part, but everywhere else. quite a bit.that didnt help. than i bleed the air in the system at the thermostatelike told, and that didnt help. after that i took off the intake and it looked like the throttle paddle thing inside the body, was sticking. so i thought, adjusted that and still no luck. after that i reset my iacv as directed, and still no luck. so i drive it around the block, and the major problem seems to be that the when the cars in gear, it idles high and holdes high. when it idels in nutural its fine. sound a little shakey maybe. maybe not. but it stays at about 800. its when i try to drive it, it starts the automatic reving on its own. anotehr thing i wondered, was when i took off the intake, there was a hole in the inside back of the throttlebody, that had a huge vacume on it when i gave it gas. is that hole supposed to be so loud it sounds like a tiny turbo. it makes a kinda loud whip noise. hard to explain. also, there's a tube that comes off the gear box(i guess its called) where the shifter and cluch cables attach to tranny to shift it, its just sitting there and it blows some sort of fluid on the intake after time. other than that, maybe its the distributor. myabe something cheaper i hope. i hope i didnt buy a lemon. feedback? thanks, eric