so to reset the ECU i need to pull the 7.5amp backup fuse (from under the hood fuse boxi assume)? so i turn the car on from cold start, pull the fuse out for 30seconds, put it back in and let the car keep running untill its at full tempature? Eric

 

Not exactly. With the car turned off you remove the fuse, wait, put it back in. This erases the ECU/s memory.

Then you start it cold, don't touch the gas pedal. Let it warm up without touching the gas pedal. Thisallows the ECU to'learn' the behavior of all those cleaned/adjusted pieces in the idle-control system.

How about the oil in your spark plug tubes? It would be good if the engine wasn't misfiring during this 'learning' process.

 

well i took a look down the spark plug tubes earlier today? and they looked clean, just a dropof oil. than again i took the old plugs out and maybe its gone cause what was in there dripped in the engine when i took the old one's out? that what i think happend. so basicly i need to take the valve cover off sometime soon, and put a new spark plug tube gasket, and a new valve cover gasket. man o man. first thing tomorrow i'm going to reset the ECU, but when i first start the car, it idles at about 2-2500 rpm for like a minute maybe more(never timed) i usually tap the gas a couple timeto get it to drop. i guess let it drop on its own?

 

also, it came to mind today... sometimes my breaks work, sometimes they go all the way to the floor it seems.. maybe its a booster leak or something. its so hard to find leaks cause the engine is running. but the 80% of the hoses are new. tell you what, i'm going to have a new car by the time we get this fixed. haha. thanks.

 

oh btw, once she idles down and is in nutrual, than she idel's fine. it at start up and when in gear and trying to drive it shuffles and stuff,.

 

Yeah, for this procedure let it drop on it's own. Actually,once everything is working properly, tapping on the gas should not make the fast-idle drop. (That works on carburators...) For this reset & learning procedure the engine doesn't have to be REAL cold.

Pay attention as it warms up. If the leaky oil causes any misfiring, you may want to do it again after you fix the sparkplug tubeseals.

 

Brakes, now, too?? Maybe that's a new thread...
Look for topics related to 'sinking brake pedal'.

Mushy pedal that gets firm when you pump it = air = bleed your brakes.

Solid pedal that slowly, smoothly, sinks when you're at a redlight = bad master cylinder.

 

yeah, breaks need bleeding. wasnt sure if the booster was tied into the vaccume system we've been working on. maybe a leak in that.

as far as misfiring goes, i dont know what misfiring sound like to be honest. i'm going to get the FITV and the ECU checked out tomorrow whenever i wake up.

 

Brake booster has a big vacuum hose to the intake manifold. You can disconnect it & plug the hole in the manifold.If it makes any difference at all in the idle, then you can worry about it...

Misfiring would sound like a faint hiccup in the smooth sound of the idling engine. It's simply a cylinder failing to fire sometimes, making a quick, sharp drop in engine speed. Just listen & hope for a nice smooth idling sound.

 

ok, so this is starting to get crazy. i reset the ECU this afternoon first thing. first i took the ecu 10amp fuse out from the fuse box by the drivers feet. put it back in, than took out the 15amp ecu fuse from under the hood fuse box. started car, and the idel sat at 2000rpm for a good 2 minutes if not longer. so i tapped the gas, it went down. at that point, i figued i messed up the reset process so i turned car off and took both fuses out, put back in, started car and let it do its thing to reset the ecu. no help. i started to mess with the throttle screw, and the screw thats under the throttle. and foundof everything thats beendone,this made the biggest difference so far.i'm thinking it just needs to betuned properly.and i spent a couple hours todaytrying to tune it, and everytime i thought i fixed the problem, i would make it worse. than do that about 25 times.i never got around to checking the FITV since i was messing with the throttle screws. ... what about timing? is it possible the rotor inside the cap was bumped or when put in never adjused? just some ideas of my own. Thanks, Eric