1991 accord changed trans now turns over but wont start
#21
ok so i found the codes but damn what the hell is making so much go wrong. as far as i know the electronics were fine i switched them over from the other trans, what do i do and can this cause a no start issue w the 14 1 2 7 8 tcm codes what is the craping deal
#22
im using one of the rear shock nuts as a ground, im getting 12 v on the one line so by the transitive property i should be able to get 12 v if it was there on the one im getting 6 v on
and i couldn't find the test for the main harness but i did test it in some manner and listed the results still need help
and i couldn't find the test for the main harness but i did test it in some manner and listed the results still need help
#24
Your description of the test for the main relay harness is confusing.
Here is how the 94 manual numbers the pins:
1 2 X 3
4 5 6 7
Here are the important ones for voltage or ground:
#5 should have 12V when the key is in the II position
#7 should always have 12V
#2 should have 12V when you turn the key to start the car
#3 should be closed circuit to ground (also you should read same voltage should be read between #7 and ground compared to the voltage between #7 and #3)
#1, 4, and 6 should not have voltage.
Can you tell me what you read on 5, 7, 2, and 3?
Here is how the 94 manual numbers the pins:
1 2 X 3
4 5 6 7
Here are the important ones for voltage or ground:
#5 should have 12V when the key is in the II position
#7 should always have 12V
#2 should have 12V when you turn the key to start the car
#3 should be closed circuit to ground (also you should read same voltage should be read between #7 and ground compared to the voltage between #7 and #3)
#1, 4, and 6 should not have voltage.
Can you tell me what you read on 5, 7, 2, and 3?
#25
yea im sorry i was tired when i wrote that, im going to be back in half hr and going to start testing things for as coule hrs, i think my results were like what u described bur not sure, i think i only got 2 12 v sources when i tested yesterday
#27
havent checked yet but from what i wrote and what u wrote it looks like im getting. 22 v on one leg that i should get 12 v on the end that has 2 12 v side by side i guess 6 7, 7 only has the .22 v where does this voltage come from
#28
Double check those values and post the voltage for each one.
#7 is powered from the battery. It is protected by the 15 amp ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Check that fuse.
#5 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the II position.
#3 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the start position.
#7 is powered from the battery. It is protected by the 15 amp ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Check that fuse.
#5 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the II position.
#3 is powered by the ignition switch having the key in the start position.
#29
ok man can you post the fuse box outlay w amps for each fuse bc with the key on i get 12v at 4 and 6 but not 7, no voltage on 3 and poorman i was testing the fuel ump when i was using the rear shock mount bolt, we were determining that the yel wire to the pump had half the required voltage and that there was only one 12 v source in the back and that was the green red wire
this #7 that has no voltage is also a yellow wire but is thicker guage, and i know it comes from the ower source somewhere, im guessing that 15 ampfuse we talking about
this #7 that has no voltage is also a yellow wire but is thicker guage, and i know it comes from the ower source somewhere, im guessing that 15 ampfuse we talking about