I have an electrical issue with my accord.
1991 Honda Accord Wagon EX F22A6- Automatic
-Temperature Gauge will only read above cold no matter how long I have been driving.
-Gas Gauge is stuck at the same position as the temp. gauge unless I fill it up all the way
-The Door ajar lights on dash say that all 5 door are open when they are all closed(its a wagon)
-The S light for the transmission will come on by itself even if I have not pushed it, and the relay will start clicking, where the shifter is and the car will start shifting weird (the S light and strange shifting are at the same time)

I already know about the TCU problems these cars have.

I am leaning toward the alternator, but I just wanted to see if anyone has had these issues.

 

I would disconnect the battery, then clean all ends of both batter cables. There is also a ground that is under the thermostat housing that you may want to clean as well. Inspect the wiring at the alternator.

I would have the battery and alternator tested at a parts store.

 

Will do all that tomorrow and will re post.

Thanks

 

had the battery tested and it was bad. I put a new one in. cleaned all terminal and the ground under thermostat. When I first started the car everything seemed to be normal, No door lights, and no S light for the transmission. After about a minute or so, the issues started again. I should note that something is also draining the battery. I have been disconnecting it when I am not driving it. I now took the main relay out to test and found it was bad. I am about to go out and install a brand new one and test it. Let me know if anyone has any other ideas????

 

I Installed the new MAIN RELAY and the transmission Sport shift (S) light ins now off and the car shifts normally. So that issue is solved.

-all 5 door ajar lights are still on all the time- I used some electrical cleaner on the door switches and made sure they are sliding properly, and they are.

-Gas gauge and temp gauge still don't work properly.

Could the gauge cluster board behind that part of the gauge set be bad? All three issues (gas, temp, and door) are all in that one cluster side.

My next plan is to take out the gauges and inspect the circuit boards to see if they are abnormal or not.

Its been a long time since I tracked down and electrical issue where the battery has a draw on it with they key off. Does anyone have any suggestions??

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I have owned 15 of these 90-93 accords and have never had these kind of issues. I bought the car only 4 days ago, and don't want to take it into a shop to get repaired.

 

The gauge problems may be the board, or they could be different issues.

To find the draw you will have to use a volt meter. One way would be to measure the amperage on top of each fuse in the engine bay fuse box and the fuse box inside the car. There are two contacts on top of the fuse that will allow you to probe the amperage being drawn on each fuse without having to remove each fuse. One or more fuses should be obvious if they draw too much current.

The other way is to disconnect the + battery cable and connect your volt meter between the battery post and now disconnected battery cable. Set the volt meter to amps and start pulling fuses until you see a significant drop in amperage. The advantage of this method is that you can disconnect the starter or the alternator to see if they are drawing voltage.

As for the gauge cluster, you want to inspect the coolant temperature sending unit. This is on the engine block under the distributor and is the only sensor with one wire going to it. Disconnect that wire and ground it. Turn the key to the II position and see if the needle moves towards hot when you turn the key to the II position. If the needle starts moving, turn off the car to prevent damaging the gauge needle.

 

Pull the cluster out, The board has a burn spot behind where the problem gauges are. Going to find a replacement tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice on the other electrical issue will be working on that as well.

 

So I hooked up my voltmeter and pulled all the fuses under hood and dash. The only one that made a significant change was the interior lighting fuse under hood. I pulled all the door switches out and the dome lights and nothing changed. I am guessing that it either has a short or something else is going on. Any Ideas?

 

I pulled the integrated control module out and the draw on the battery went down a 75% of what it was. Could the ICM be bad ?

 

Which fuse did you specifically remove? The way to test would be to put the volt meter on the two tabs of the fuse on the top where the 10A label is located. Then start unplugging all the items protected by that fuse.

Something downstream of the ICM may be actually drawing current. You can try replacing with something from a junkyard. I haven't heard of too many of these going bad on these forums.