I just bought a 91 accord lx automatic on 5/11 and am having some issues with it. Thursday the car died while turning on an on ramp to the interstate. It started up after 10 minutes, drove for one minute then dies again. It did this two more times till I coasted to a stop. I sat for half an hr. then it started again then died ten seconds later.

I cannot hear the pump prime at all, the main relay clicks so I think it is working.

There is no pressure at the rail.

 

Fuel pump relay? sometimes when they go just a bump can fix them or make them not work. cheap enough to replace or swap with another working relay to see if it fixes it.

 

Are your referring to the main relay or fuel cutoff relay? I cannot find the fuel cut off relay to test it. Someone got into the wiring to remove an alarm system there is stuff hanging under the dash like the main relay and some other module the size of the ecu and I don't know where they attach to. Maybe I'll take some pictures.

 

The main relay is a good place to start testing. Copy and paste the link below to see how to remove the main relay.

techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

 

I did some more testing tonight. My wife turned the key to on 3 times and I heard the fuel pump prime each time, I told her to start it and it ran for 3 minutes then died. Then she tuned the key to on a few more times the pump didn't prime but I could hear a clunk noise coming from the tank each time corresponding to her turning the key to on. Sounds to me that the pump is getting signal from main relay and is just crapping out.

 

Taken from techauto page:

Fuel pump: Symptoms of a bad fuel pump.

• Turn the ignition switch on and no hum is heard for the first 2 seconds.
• Car stalls while idling or cruising above 1 mph. Sometimes car comes back to life.
• To troubleshoot or replace the fuel pump see this page.

Sounds like the symptoms I'm getting.

 

The main fuel relay is really two relays in one. Even if you hear it click, it may not be making proper contact to send power to the fuel pump.

You should rule out the main relay first, because the pump is a bit more work to change. You can try redoing the solder joints on the board if you know how to solder.

To verify the relay is working properly, there is an electrical connector in the trunk that is near the access hatch for the fuel sending unit. One of the wire should be a yel/blk wire. You should back-probe that wire and connect a 12V test light between the back-probe and ground. If the light stays turned on when the car stalls, then start thinking about the fuel pump.

 

Just the info I am looking for. So the sending unit behind the back seat passenger side in the trunk.

I will back probe that connector and jump the 5, 7 terminals to supply voltage to fuel pump or just have my wife turn the key on again with the main relay plugged in.

 

I'm thinking fuel pump. I did the test with my multimeter.

With key to on I get voltage to sending unit each time (solid yellow wire). I heard the fuel pump about 3 times and it almost started. Then I stopped hearing the pump and was still getting voltage.

voltage varied from 10.3 to 11.5.

Am I testing the correct wire?

 

That voltage is a bit on the low side. That could depend on the ground you are using or the back probe isn't making perfect contact with the pin.

I would clean the ground bolt near that cover in your trunk just to be thorough.

It does sound like the fuel pump is the culprit to me.