Pull out that TCU and check for leaky capacitors. If I recall correctly there are a few small capacitors that are originally blue in color that turns to a dark faded violet color. Also the telltale sign that they are bad is when you try to unsolder them they emit an odor similar to fish oil. I repaired a friends 93 that had similar problems and the caps in the tranny control unit was bad. If you are not comfortable soldering and stuff check Ebay for a used unit.

 

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/framerq.asp

try this..
user id .. type in user
password type in....password

go to the bottom to automotive repair, enter 92 acc lx , go to service bulletins ,go to A/T ,,....
there is a bulletin second from the bottom a/T shift problem,,,, try that test ..

 

Hey guys, thanks for the information that yall have posted or given me, its just a process of weeding throught everything. I did do the thing of pulling the fuse to reset th A/T unit, and it had no effect on it. Ive also pulled the neg. batt terminal off for a bit to see if that did anything, and still no change. Ill keep updates posted if i figure anything else out.

 

Does anybody know a good website or place to get one of those test harnesses to hook up to do some of the diagnostic testing that has been mentioned on some of the websites i go to and in the manual. Thanks for the help.

 

Ok, now im confused by this car. I got a little time to work on it today, and after about 2-3 minutes as usual it warmed up, and sure enough the D4 light came on, and it wne t into "limp mode". Got it back home, tried to see if i could pull codes, no codes came up. I turned the key to the "on" position but not started and the D4 light would come on for a few seconds, then turn off. We i actually started the car the D4 light would come right on. Car cooled down for alittle bit, and went to take it for another test drive, and nothing happened, ran like it is supposed too. Any ideas?!?! Im thinking the a/t unit as the mainculprit, but im just not sure. Anyhelp as always, is appreciated. Thanks

 

I would suggest trying to find a TCU close to you that will offer a no fix, no pay offer. Some will do this, but I might even pay for the part w/o the garuntee if the price were right. You see from the car-part.com search there is a wide variation in price for a TCU. There are services that will repair your TCU for fairly reasonable cost also.

good luck

 

I hate to ask something basic, but are you using a wire (paperclip) to jump the two pin connector to read the codes?

When I read your last post, you only mentioned that you turned the key to the ON position and nothing about jumping that connection.

 

Yes, ive used a paperclip, and several other things to jump it. Nothing at all.

 

did you go to the link that i posted in an earlier reply to you ??

if not , why not ..we cannot do any tests for you from here , you got to do all the hands on work,, we can only give you suggestions and try to point you in the right direction , but if you do not do them or try what we suggest, then i feel it is a waste of our time ,,but if someone suggested to you to replace a part DO NOT replace anything till you diagnose it first ;;;

we might suspect what it might be but it could be more than 1 thing and replacing this or that could result in a waste of you money
that is why i always preach to DIAGNOSE before replacing parts

 

desert: I wouldn't call it preaching; it's good advice!!!

ricknyc: I know of an excellent tranny shop in northern NJ that has done re-buld work for me and used to do business with my grandfather when he owned an Esso gas station (exxon before it was exxon, for the young crowd). They've been around for around 50 years. While a little expensive, their work is second to none!

Fisher Auto Trans
81 US Highway 46
Fairfield, NJ 07004
(973) 227-2487