1992 Honda still won't start after pump changed
#11
Yes, it is getting fuel. Yesterday I changed the coil and checked for fuel by opening the line. It's there. Changing the pcv today and on a different project will replace the O- rings due to oil in the spark plug chambers. I feel that would affect the performance. But that's been like that for a while now, even before the stalling out. I also was going to clean the egr .
#12
Was this a car you were driving before it going out? It seems to me that if it was the car had many major issues that was not addressed and it will take you to correct the issues one by one to get a good picture of why it's not starting.
You say you are getting spark and fuel so it should start to some degree. If not your issue is deeper. Crank, Cam sensor chain(timing jumped) etc. only you know the condition of the plugs and to what degree you're getting oil in the tubes.
You say you are getting spark and fuel so it should start to some degree. If not your issue is deeper. Crank, Cam sensor chain(timing jumped) etc. only you know the condition of the plugs and to what degree you're getting oil in the tubes.
#13
Spark, fuel, compression, air, and timing are the items to check for a no-start.
How did you verify that you have fuel to the cylinders? Do you have strong gas smell when you pull the spark plugs?
I'd also check the spark plug wire firing order. The order is 1,3,4.2 on the distributor cap looking at the cap from the passenger tire and counting clock-wise.
If you are pulling the valve cover to fix the oil in spark plug tube leaks, put the camshaft to TDC, by turning the engine by hand where the arrow on the cam sprocket points up. Make sure the distributor rotor contact is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire.
How did you verify that you have fuel to the cylinders? Do you have strong gas smell when you pull the spark plugs?
I'd also check the spark plug wire firing order. The order is 1,3,4.2 on the distributor cap looking at the cap from the passenger tire and counting clock-wise.
If you are pulling the valve cover to fix the oil in spark plug tube leaks, put the camshaft to TDC, by turning the engine by hand where the arrow on the cam sprocket points up. Make sure the distributor rotor contact is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire.
#14
Was this a car you were driving before it going out? It seems to me that if it was the car had many major issues that was not addressed and it will take you to correct the issues one by one to get a good picture of why it's not starting.
You say you are getting spark and fuel so it should start to some degree. If not your issue is deeper. Crank, Cam sensor chain(timing jumped) etc. only you know the condition of the plugs and to what degree you're getting oil in the tubes.
You say you are getting spark and fuel so it should start to some degree. If not your issue is deeper. Crank, Cam sensor chain(timing jumped) etc. only you know the condition of the plugs and to what degree you're getting oil in the tubes.
#15
This is for the post about oil in your sparkplug tubes. I'm merging your threads from the different forum areas.
We don't use the "DIY" area for asking questions - it's for completed write-ups. So I'm moving this to General Tech.
Two places for that oil to come from; both are rubber seals down in the sparkplug holes.
The top seals are normally sold as part of the valve-cover gasket set. Four rings that fit around the holes in the valve cover. That one is easy.
Farther down, the spark-plug holes actually continue through the camshaft bearing caps. Four of the cam-bearing caps have these holes, and they have an O-ring. But I think you have to dismantle the valve gear in order to get those off. So cross your fingers and hope that its the upper seals.
We don't use the "DIY" area for asking questions - it's for completed write-ups. So I'm moving this to General Tech.
Two places for that oil to come from; both are rubber seals down in the sparkplug holes.
The top seals are normally sold as part of the valve-cover gasket set. Four rings that fit around the holes in the valve cover. That one is easy.
Farther down, the spark-plug holes actually continue through the camshaft bearing caps. Four of the cam-bearing caps have these holes, and they have an O-ring. But I think you have to dismantle the valve gear in order to get those off. So cross your fingers and hope that its the upper seals.
#16
I'm not an automatic transmission guy, but I don't think there anything from the transmission or shift lever that can prevent it from starting. Only an interlock for the starter, but I think from your description that the starter cranks the engine but it doesn't fire up. Is that right?
New spark plugs?
A long time ago I went around and around with an issue, and when I had it resolved it still would not start. Turned out the plugs were fouled from all the times I tried to start, but they looked just fine. For some reason I was using a random spark plug from the toolbox to check the spark and with that I had a good spark. The plugs were fairly new and I "KNEW" that they weren't the problem...
Eventually I just put in a brand new set of plugs and it started right up.
New spark plugs?
A long time ago I went around and around with an issue, and when I had it resolved it still would not start. Turned out the plugs were fouled from all the times I tried to start, but they looked just fine. For some reason I was using a random spark plug from the toolbox to check the spark and with that I had a good spark. The plugs were fairly new and I "KNEW" that they weren't the problem...
Eventually I just put in a brand new set of plugs and it started right up.
Last edited by JimBlake; 05-17-2020 at 11:18 AM.
#17
If the D4 is blinking then there is something wrong with the trans somewhere. I know if the neutral safety switch is the cause you'll only get crank but not start. I'm not too sure what year model we are talking about here but would be part of the problem if it still blinking. I would check your main relay also. Try to tap it and see if the car starts. Again I don't know the year so I'm stabbing in the dark
The thread is too confusing to give you solid help because you're lacking needed information. What is the year model we are talking about (IMPORTANT).
The thread is too confusing to give you solid help because you're lacking needed information. What is the year model we are talking about (IMPORTANT).
Last edited by Seanjordan20; 05-17-2020 at 05:23 PM.
#18
He put 1992 Accord into the thread title, but it disappeared somewhere along the way. Actually, that may have happened when I merged 3 threads into 1. I just tried to fix that but it only changed the title up at the top... (Too lazy to edit every post in the thread)
I thought that the neutral-safety switch would interlock the starter, so then it wouldn't crank. But maybe that's not correct back in 1992??
I thought that the neutral-safety switch would interlock the starter, so then it wouldn't crank. But maybe that's not correct back in 1992??
Last edited by JimBlake; 05-17-2020 at 04:43 PM.
#20
I'm not an automatic transmission guy, but I don't think there anything from the transmission or shift lever that can prevent it from starting. Only an interlock for the starter, but I think from your description that the starter cranks the engine but it doesn't fire up. Is that right?
New spark plugs?
A long time ago I went around and around with an issue, and when I had it resolved it still would not start. Turned out the plugs were fouled from all the times I tried to start, but they looked just fine. For some reason I was using a random spark plug from the toolbox to check the spark and with that I had a good spark. The plugs were fairly new and I "KNEW" that they weren't the problem...
Eventually I just put in a brand new set of plugs and it started right up.
New spark plugs?
A long time ago I went around and around with an issue, and when I had it resolved it still would not start. Turned out the plugs were fouled from all the times I tried to start, but they looked just fine. For some reason I was using a random spark plug from the toolbox to check the spark and with that I had a good spark. The plugs were fairly new and I "KNEW" that they weren't the problem...
Eventually I just put in a brand new set of plugs and it started right up.
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