My 1992 LX 4 door 2.2, Automatic 204k has the shivers at idle. That’s the best way I can explain it. When you hit the gas she’s smooth! It’s only at idle, Park, Neutral, Drive, it don’t matter. Hit the gas and she’s smooth!

When I purchased the car recently the PO said it’s done this since he had it. I did all my maintenance when I did the timing belt.

Adjusted valves, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Plugs, Wires, cleaned throttle body, loosened those two screws and snugged that little plastic thing down for cold idle, and also cleaned the IAC? I think that’s what it’s called. It has two bolts and two coolant lines going to it. It idles at about 1200 in park and about 900-1000 in gear. Checked for vacuum leaks, found nothing.

No fluctuating idle, just feels like a vibrating feeling. Like she has the shivers, I know that sounds stupid. Once you hit the gas to pull out, it’s smooth!!

 

Being an automatic, the rear engine mount is vacuum-operated. It's supposed to get softer when idling in-gear (D or R). It might not be working but that doesn't explain the shaking in park or neutral.

But just for grins, check all the engine mounts. With a 28-year-old car any of them could have crumbling rubber stuff so the metal parts of the mount are against each other. You might have to get creative with a mirror to get a good look at the vacuum-operated one that's down low between the engine & firewall.

I'm not sure if you can tell anything by this, but grab the valve cover & shake the engine. You should be able to move it around a bit, but there shouldn't be any klunking or any feeling of coming up against a metal-to-metal stop.

 

Same with my '97 A/T. Recently replaced the front engine mount and the shivers seemed to get worse in shaking the car more.
But less clunking as go over speed bump sized bumps. Oh well, she goes down the road.

Drive it and enjoy it is my motto...

 

I seen some cracks on the motor mount rubber I removed to do my timing belt. But it wasn’t torn or anything. I’ll check the best I can and see what I can find.

Honestly it doesnt bother me very much. Runs very nice. I didn’t know if something bad could happen. She’s a 92, so I didn’t want to keep pouring money if I don’t have to.

 

I had a 1998 and there was a specific order for tightening the engine mounts. I don't know if that's the case for 4th & 5th generation Accords. I bet that has to do with each mount sharing the load correctly.

 

I did have that mount removed to do the belt. It idled rough when I got it, but it seemed to have gotten worse. Like the cars vibrating.

My wife used it today for work and said it feels worse. I did change the water pump. And I read that air in the system can cause that idle control to act up. But I thought I did it right.

I left the radiator cap off until it quit going down and topped it off while it was at operating temperature

 

There's a bleed valve on the thermostat housing because air tends to hang out there.
But air in the cooling system tends to cause idle RPM to surge up & down, I wouldn't describe that as a "vibration".

For the mount, you could try loosening the bolts, lifting a little bit under the oilpan, then tightening again. Just to see if that makes much difference.

 

Oh okay I thought maybe there was air. I have no idle surging. Just a higher idle than it should be. It’s almost near 1000 rpm in gear. When warmed up.

I’ll try and readjust the motor mount tomorrow turn. I just cranked the two bolts tight while the engine was lifted underneath.

 

Look in the DIY area for a thread that I started about setting the "BASE" idle speed.

 

Thank you I will check that this evening when I am on my computer. I also thought of something else, I’m wondering if I have the balancer belt to Loose or too tight I don’t know if that will cause it, the vibration issue