When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When it's idling, it bounces up & down from secondary balance. That seems about normal, but you are going to check the timing of the balance-shaft belt, right?
When you brake-torque it leans forewards or rearwards from the torque it's applying to the axles. Not sure if that's excessive movement, but it IS supposed to do some of that.
Your car does have the vacuum-operated rear mount (#4) so make sure the vacuum lines are OK. The one vacuum line (#38) should go to a vacuum bottle somewhere near the intake manifold, which it turn should be connected to the manifold so it has a vacuum source (I'll try to find a picture). Your car also has the dogbane in front (#15) so check the rubber bushings inside that.
The vacuum-operated mount is supposed to get soft ONLY when idling in gear (R or D). The way to check is like this:
- Engine all warmed up & idling.
- Trusted helper holds the brake and shifts into D or R. Don't touch the gas pedal.
- Unplug the electrical plug on the solenoid valve #18 - that should make a big difference in vibration.
If that test doesn't make any difference in vibration, then check:
- is there's actually vacuum coming through hose #38?
- is the solenoid valve clicking when you unplug & plug it back in?
- further checks if you have a MityVac and a multi-meter... let us know the results from what I've said so far.
PS - so far I haven't found a picture of a vacuum-bottle near the intake manifold. Maybe the hose #38 plugs right into the manifold? Some one with one of these cars please chime in...
When it's idling, it bounces up & down from secondary balance. That seems about normal, but you are going to check the timing of the balance-shaft belt, right?
When you brake-torque it leans forewards or rearwards from the torque it's applying to the axles. Not sure if that's excessive movement, but it IS supposed to do some of that.
Your car does have the vacuum-operated rear mount (#4) so make sure the vacuum lines are OK. The one vacuum line (#38) should go to a vacuum bottle somewhere near the intake manifold, which it turn should be connected to the manifold so it has a vacuum source (I'll try to find a picture). Your car also has the dogbane in front (#15) so check the rubber bushings inside that.
The vacuum-operated mount is supposed to get soft ONLY when idling in gear (R or D). The way to check is like this:
- Engine all warmed up & idling.
- Trusted helper holds the brake and shifts into D or R. Don't touch the gas pedal.
- Unplug the electrical plug on the solenoid valve #18 - that should make a big difference in vibration.
If that test doesn't make any difference in vibration, then check:
- is there's actually vacuum coming through hose #38?
- is the solenoid valve clicking when you unplug & plug it back in?
- further checks if you have a MityVac and a multi-meter... let us know the results from what I've said so far.
PS - so far I haven't found a picture of a vacuum-bottle near the intake manifold. Maybe the hose #38 plugs right into the manifold? Some one with one of these cars please chime in...
Thanks Jim!!!! I just screencapped this to take up the garage this weekend!
I am am going to take it back apart to check the balance belt. The car did this when I bought it, but seems worse to me now, unless it’s my imagination.
I’ll be doing step by step from your post soon as I check the balance belt. I need to make sure it’s not too tight. I doubt it is, since I loosened the adjuster and let it tension itself. But maybe too loose can also cause that. I’m not quite sure.
Too tight won't cause that vibration - it'll cause the whining sound & maybe wear the belt a bit quicker. Too loose will allow the balance-shafts to skip timing & THAT causes the vibration.
08-15-2019, 08:17 PM
