When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Okay so i was looking around some more i found that the temp sensor in the thermostat housing had a broken wire going to it. i ran to a junk yard and pulled one and fixed mine. this car i imagined wouls be a wiring mess because anything that could light up that kid put it on this car. i went through the whole car and pulled every single wire they ran and fixed where the spliced in to get power. i also thre on one of the other dizzys and when i started the car i have no cel.. well not yet i imagine.. either way i start the car after all that and what it does is fires up high idle"Cold" once it gets some temp i shut it off for 5 min and start again.. again no cel but it revved up to 1500 and dropped to 1000 did this 3 times and stopped restarted the car and i guess that problem is gone its not revving now but that was weird. iac i imagine who knows how long it was unhooked...
ill be driving a lot today so ill update on if i have any luck. im currently sourcing an ecu just in case
okay so i got a new ecu being that i seen someone else had this problem on another thread. unfortunately when i put it in i got a cel and code 9 same driving conditions but slightly different ill get a video tomorrow with it running. now the cel come on always at start. its only code 9. what could cause this code to keep coming back ? this is a new ecu new dizzy well 5 in total now 2 new 3 used + my stock one. all throw code 9. some throw it in a slightly different manner but always the bucking then after restart it runs fine... most of the times. sometime you gotta restart it twice but whatever itll always run just fine after with minor very slight sputters from time to time but is what it is still gets me to where i need to go but i just cant trust it but i need to be able to..
Anyone have ANY ideas? seriously i probed the whole car fixed any issues i found none related to the engine other than the coolant temp sensor its all been gone through and im at a loss. only thing i have found that ive been wondering... My stock distributor had no set screw for the rotor it was just press fit. both new ones did not either, but 2 of the used ones did and 1 did not the two that did came off a 90 and a 92. i know the 94 did not. soooo was i sent the wrong new one or no?
I'd probably install the ECU that was not giving you the code 9. What are the honda part numbers on the ECUs you are using? The part number will start with 37820-xxx-xxx.
The next thing I'd do is clean and tighten the fast idle thermo valve, since you have a high idle. The 93 also had an air boost valve that may be bypassing air into the engine.
Here is a post covering the valves that allow air to bypass the throttle plate.
There are 3 valves that allow air to bypass the throttle body and can mess up the idle. The FITV (#8), IAC(#15), and the air boostvalve (#9). See pic below.
What you want to do is remove the intake hose from the throttle body. Start the car. There are two ports inside of the throttle body that allow air to bypass the throttle plate.
When the engine is cold, both ports should pull a vacuum. The lower one is controlled by the FITV. The upper is IAC controlled. Plug the lower FITV port with your finger. The idle should stabilize if it is a FITV problem. Plugging both ports should cause the engine to stall.
Once the engine warms up, you should feel very little vacuum on the FITV port when covering with your finger.
You should be able to plug the air boostvalve by blocking off its port in the intake tube where #22 plugs into the intake tube. Alternatively, you can pull the vacuum hose from the intake tube and plug the end of #22. If this stabilizes your idle, then that valve is the likely problem.
01-04-2021, 09:19 AM
