93 Honda Accord LX, 2.2L, 4 Speed AT, 4 door, 160K+ miles, use 87 regular gasoline at Chevron.

So pretty this happens randomly and I'm not quite sure what could be the problem.

After starting the engine, everything runs normal, I wait for the car to warm up before driving off with it. It's not until last week on Thursday, the car stalled at freeway ramp. The rpm meter went idle, the engine check light came on, along with battery and oil check light. The car completely shut down. I was able to start the engine again and rolled it away to work.

After from work, going to the parking garage, I start the car, drove off with it and the all of a sudden, the car stalled again. Again I was able to start the engine but 1-2 minutes later when I was trying to get out the parking garage, it stalled again. It stalled about 5 times, 30 seconds to a minute in between. The third time I tried to start the car, it didn't want to start so I waited about 5 minutes to try again, it works, drove off, then stalled again.

Everything was normal after the 5th stall. I had a mechanic check it out and he thought it was probably the fuel injection. So, he cleaned it out. The car works even better than before until this week, the car stalled 4 times on me, and I was able to drive it away.

The engine check light doesn't stay on after I restart the engine. A friend of mine told me it if it's something major, the engine check light would stay on. He said it could probably an electrical problem where it's not giving enough power to the engine. I did the paper clip method to check the CEL, it turns out everything is normal, no codes.

I had the same problem about 1-2 years ago. The car stalled many times until it didn't wanted to start. It turned out to be the distributor that went bad. Got that replace. I also replaced the ignition starter within those years as well.

I'm not quite sure if this involves with it, but a couple of month ago, I had oil leak going through the distributor because of a broken seal inside of it. Took the cap off and oil was everywhere. Replaced it with a new seal and no more leak. My neighbor also told me that soon or later, I need to replace the pinion inside the distributor because it's wearing out but not now.

So I'm not quite sure if the oil leak is the culprit because during that time, the car works fine unless it decided to have problems now.

I'm trying to give as much information as I can since many of the mechanics I talk with and friends were confused because the car runs fine. The car doesn't stall when they are test driving it. It just happens randomly.



If anyone can help me, I really appreciate it!

Past and recent maintenance and repair to the car:

Changed the gasket seal (a month ago)
Changed the seal within the distributor (a month ago)
Replaced the ignition starter (1-2 years ago)
Replaced the distributor (1-2 years ago)

 

Its sounds like the distributor cap and rotor are due. Replace them along with the spark plugs if they are due.

See if you can get the car to stall by shaking the key when driving on a vacant road. If the car will consistently stall, then the electrical portion of the ignition switch should be replaced.

 

Thanks PAhonda, I will look into that.

Just an update on this. The car stalled again and I was able to retrieve the engine code. 1 long blink, 5 short blinks. Code 15 - Ignition Output Signal. I got the code right after it stalled and before starting the engine again by shorting the blue connector for the code reader.

I took it to the mechanic and it seems that mechanic couldn't find any problems to the car after driving it awhile or for one whole day.

PAhonda, what brand for the distributor cap and rotor do you recommend? I assume the last time I replace it, the mechanic replace the distributor with an aftermarket part but I'm not quite sure which brand he used.

 

Code 15 can be due to wiring faults in the distributor (possible since work was done recently), or possibly faulty ignitor. Problem will need to be full-time before diagnostics will help.

When no-start occurs listen carefully for fuel pump when you first turn keyswitch to ON. You should hear fuel pump for 2-3 secs and then it will go off. You may hear clicks from under the dash, one when fuel pump engages, and 2nd when fuel pump goes off. If you don't hear these indicators, the main fuel relay is intermittent.

good luck

 

Thanks TexasHonda,

I hear the three indicators you mention. I believe it has something to do with the distributor when my neighbor was working on it after the oil leak that went in.

I guess I'll have to open it up if all comes to worst, buy another distributor.

Which aftermarket brand do you guys recommend besides Honda OEM?

 

Oil + Electronic parts = bad.


I would also be looking very closely at the dizy, espeically after the oil leak.

No need to replace it with a new one though, find one from a wrecker and just swap it over. (remember to mark up the timing before taking the old one out, and then retime when you put the new one in).

 

The code 15 points towards a problem with the ignition control module in the distributor or its wiring.

Remove distributor cap and the ICM is a black part that has four wires going to it. Check that those wires aren't damaged and that they are on their pins tight. Wipe any oil or corrosion on the pins to the ICM.

I just replace the cap and rotor with any aftermarket part at the autoparts store.

If your code 15 comes back, then I would just replace the ICM instead of buying a new distributor.

 

Just an update.

The car started to act like its on it's last breath. Ended up dragging it to a mechanic and it seems that the ICM was the culprit. Replaced that and so far, the car doesn't feel like it's going to stall while it's idling. I just hope that's the problem and nothing else as it seems like everyone's opinion who I talk with find that the problem lies within the distributor. Anyways, thanks for everyone help!