1994 Accord EX A/C Blowing Hot air, while System is Full
#1
1994 Accord EX A/C Blowing Hot air, while System is Full
Hi Guys-
I was trying to fill the system because I was thinking maybe it's low on R143a, while I was filling the system filler gauge was showing that system is already full(Warning Zone).
But if I run the A/C it blows Hot air, if I touch the compressor line, they aren't cold, so it means compressor isn't engaging, right?
How can I troubleshoot and fix this? Because A/C used to work fine~2 years ago but not any more? Any help, advice and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again for helping out.
I was trying to fill the system because I was thinking maybe it's low on R143a, while I was filling the system filler gauge was showing that system is already full(Warning Zone).
But if I run the A/C it blows Hot air, if I touch the compressor line, they aren't cold, so it means compressor isn't engaging, right?
How can I troubleshoot and fix this? Because A/C used to work fine~2 years ago but not any more? Any help, advice and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again for helping out.
#3
Never add R134a to the system using the gauge that comes on those cans. You really need to use a manifold that measures the high and low side of the system. Assuming you are low in R134a and blindly adding it to the system is dangerous.
Do some basic diagnostics first.
When the engine is cold, start the engine and turn on the a/c. Does the green light turn on on the a/c switch?
Do both fans bolted to the radiator turn on?
Take a look at the pulley of the a/c compressor. There is a plate at the very end that should not spin when the engine is running and the a/c is turned off. Use a flash light to see the clutch plate. Also, be careful not to get anything caught in those serpentine belts. When you turn on the a/c, does the clutch plate start spinning with the pulley?
Do some basic diagnostics first.
When the engine is cold, start the engine and turn on the a/c. Does the green light turn on on the a/c switch?
Do both fans bolted to the radiator turn on?
Take a look at the pulley of the a/c compressor. There is a plate at the very end that should not spin when the engine is running and the a/c is turned off. Use a flash light to see the clutch plate. Also, be careful not to get anything caught in those serpentine belts. When you turn on the a/c, does the clutch plate start spinning with the pulley?
#4
Do some basic diagnostics first.
When the engine is cold, start the engine and turn on the a/c. Does the green light turn on on the a/c switch?
Do both fans bolted to the radiator turn on?
Take a look at the pulley of the a/c compressor. There is a plate at the very end that should not spin when the engine is running and the a/c is turned off. Use a flash light to see the clutch plate. Also, be careful not to get anything caught in those serpentine belts. When you turn on the a/c, does the clutch plate start spinning with the pulley?
Thanks again, what are possible next steps for troubleshooting?
#5
if the compressor turns with the A/C on and you have no cold air (you said hot) and hot air is blowing, you may have a control issue with the blend doors or you have a compressor that has gone bad. next step is to put a set of gauges on and find out what the pressures are, high and low side. i've said it before and i'll say it again, dumping refrigerant into a system without know what the problem is, is a bad idea...
#6
I'm not sure you understand difference between clutch plate (on extreme end of compressor & turns w/ compressor when clutch engages w/ a loud click) and drive pulley (turns all the time whether compressor is engaged or not).
If hoses are warm and compressor is really turning, then very low charge, failed compressor, or failed expansion valve is indicated.
Agree that measuring system pressures is necessary to determine fault.
good luck
If hoses are warm and compressor is really turning, then very low charge, failed compressor, or failed expansion valve is indicated.
Agree that measuring system pressures is necessary to determine fault.
good luck
#7
if the compressor turns with the A/C on and you have no cold air (you said hot) and hot air is blowing, you may have a control issue with the blend doors or you have a compressor that has gone bad. next step is to put a set of gauges on and find out what the pressures are, high and low side. i've said it before and i'll say it again, dumping refrigerant into a system without know what the problem is, is a bad idea...
A/C used to work just fine 2 years ago, it started to get less cold and finally now blowing 'Hot' air.
I am sorry, didn't know that refrigerant is not a problem and culprit
How to troubleshoot for the blend door and a bad compressor?What should be the pressure on the Low/High side?
#8
I'm not sure you understand difference between clutch plate (on extreme end of compressor & turns w/ compressor when clutch engages w/ a loud click) and drive pulley (turns all the time whether compressor is engaged or not).
If hoses are warm and compressor is really turning, then very low charge, failed compressor, or failed expansion valve is indicated.
Agree that measuring system pressures is necessary to determine fault.
good luck
If hoses are warm and compressor is really turning, then very low charge, failed compressor, or failed expansion valve is indicated.
Agree that measuring system pressures is necessary to determine fault.
good luck
Thanks again guys, really appreciate it.
#9
If, after you are able to verify the AC is really working and it is still blowing hot air, then move on to check the heater valve.
A misadjusted heater valve cable, a stripped valve or both can make the A/C temperature higher by alot . Disconnect the heater valve cable and check the heater valve arm for looseness. If the stem screw is loose or the arm has any play, you found a likely cause for the problem. A heater valve in this conditions is usually considered irreparable, so replacement would be necessary.
See this for adjustment of heater valve cable:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...adjustment-jpg
A misadjusted heater valve cable, a stripped valve or both can make the A/C temperature higher by alot . Disconnect the heater valve cable and check the heater valve arm for looseness. If the stem screw is loose or the arm has any play, you found a likely cause for the problem. A heater valve in this conditions is usually considered irreparable, so replacement would be necessary.
See this for adjustment of heater valve cable:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...adjustment-jpg
#10
Thanks so much 'Redbull-1' for your response and reply.
You brought up a very interesting point and now let me share another thing if it helps for troubleshooting.
In the past if I put the temperature **** to coolest position and just run the fan with recirculate off, fresh air starts to come and it's usually cool(Of course, depends on the outside temperature). But yesterday when I tried to do it, it's still throwing warm/Hot air instead of the cool while outside it's raining. Yesterday was also the first day when I tried to use AC since it's HOT as hell inside and outside it's raining, so I didn't have any choice
Does it have anything to do with the point you brought up? Mine is 1994 Honda Accord EX and heat works just fine.
You brought up a very interesting point and now let me share another thing if it helps for troubleshooting.
In the past if I put the temperature **** to coolest position and just run the fan with recirculate off, fresh air starts to come and it's usually cool(Of course, depends on the outside temperature). But yesterday when I tried to do it, it's still throwing warm/Hot air instead of the cool while outside it's raining. Yesterday was also the first day when I tried to use AC since it's HOT as hell inside and outside it's raining, so I didn't have any choice
Does it have anything to do with the point you brought up? Mine is 1994 Honda Accord EX and heat works just fine.