1994 accord ex starting issues.
#1
1994 accord ex starting issues.
Hello, first allow me to say this is an awsome site for people like me that cant afford to throw away cash. ok I have a 94 accord ex 2.2 vtech. 140,000 miles. About a year ago every once in a while i would try to start the car and it would not start if the cel was on, I would turn the key on and off and eventually when in ll position the cel would go off and the car would start and run like a champ. The other day I was driving and the car just died with the cel on. I crank and cranked tried to get the light off and could not get it started. I had it towed home so i could start trouble shooting. The first thing I did was put gas in the car "just in case" it started with no cel for approx 2 mins then stalled with engine light. i pulled the obd connector out and jumped it with a paper clip, turned the key to ll and the light would just stay solid no blinking at all so i tried diffrent paper clips wire ect.. to make sure i was jumping it correctly. I know I have spark and know i dont have fuel and the pump runs 1 out of 50 tries. seems like if i play with the ignition switch the pump will run 1 out of 20 attemps. when the pump comes on i hear an extra click from the main relay and there is no cel. after 2 seconds the pump goes out and the cel comes back on. The relay was the first thing i changed after reading some post, but with no success. so what it boils down to for me is the pump is inttermitently getting voltage. the cel wont give me a code just stays on solid and when i play with the ignition switch the fuel pump runs more often. i read some where that if the cel dosent give a code and stays solid that means a bad ecu and its 305 bucks so i want to be positive that it cant be the ignition switch. If anyone can help i would sure appreciate it. I start a new job Monday and need my car!
#2
I have a 99 lx and it does this occasionally, my probably is that the map sensor, (sensor on the throttle body) is bad, sometimes it wont start at all and ill have to just keep cranking it and cranking it but on several occasions its just shut off while i was driving, i dont know if this is your problem but its not hard to check so i thought i'd suggest it. Just unplug the sensor and blow on the inside of it and plug it back in, let me know if this helps.
#3
I had a similar problem on my 94EX. It would occasionally stall, refuse to start, but run fine most of the time. I finally confirmed that fuel pump was not running when voltage was applied to pump.
If you hear main fuel relay (MFR) click and CEL goes off, but you don't hear the fuel pump run, you likely have a bad fuel pump. You will need some help to confirm that voltage is available during the 2-3 secs the fuel pump is enabled w/ the keyswitch turned to On. Pull fuel pump connector in trunk and check Blk/Yel wire in the three wire connector.
You can download a 94-97 Accord manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum. This will provide details.
good luck
If you hear main fuel relay (MFR) click and CEL goes off, but you don't hear the fuel pump run, you likely have a bad fuel pump. You will need some help to confirm that voltage is available during the 2-3 secs the fuel pump is enabled w/ the keyswitch turned to On. Pull fuel pump connector in trunk and check Blk/Yel wire in the three wire connector.
You can download a 94-97 Accord manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum. This will provide details.
good luck
#4
^agree. Test the voltage at the pump.
Once you have the manual I would also test the switch....or when the cel comes back on (I read this as, once to pos II, the cel comes on-pump runs, then goes off-fuel pump stops but a few seconds later the cel comes back on) wiggle the key in pos II and see if the cel goes off.
The CEL staying on while the connector is jumped, this just means the ecu does not have any stored codes.....I would not replace this yet....more testing needed.
Once you have the manual I would also test the switch....or when the cel comes back on (I read this as, once to pos II, the cel comes on-pump runs, then goes off-fuel pump stops but a few seconds later the cel comes back on) wiggle the key in pos II and see if the cel goes off.
The CEL staying on while the connector is jumped, this just means the ecu does not have any stored codes.....I would not replace this yet....more testing needed.
#7
ok update i dropped the fuel tank today and tested voltage. i am only getting voltage 1 out of 40 attemps. the only time the cel light is going off is when the pump primes. then comes right back on with no code. I replaced the main relay i tested the ignition switch and even tested the harness going to the main relay for voltage. so i am at a total loss right now i guess ill start with ecu now. i was told that the cel with no codes and stays on means its bad and is in limp mode cause when it did start before it would only run up to 3500 rpms. if there are any other thought or if i am missing somthing between the ign switch relay and fuel pump please comment thanks evey one.
#9
I have to disagree. If you are not getting voltage to the fuel pump, then this is an electrical problem.
What you need to do is unplug the main relay and do voltage tests on the relay connector. There is a link called shop manuals in the Common DIY Threads on top of the gen tech help forum. Get the 94 shop manual. Page 11-96 has the tests that you should do on that connector.
What you need to do is unplug the main relay and do voltage tests on the relay connector. There is a link called shop manuals in the Common DIY Threads on top of the gen tech help forum. Get the 94 shop manual. Page 11-96 has the tests that you should do on that connector.
#10
I agree w/ PA here. If no voltage is getting to the fuel pump when keyswitch is turned to On (no voltage at any time, it will only last 2-3 secs then go off), then something is wrong "up-circuit" of the fuel pump.
Suggest checking keyswitch Red/Wht wire at the fuse box which supplies power from ignition switch assy through fuse 2 (15A) to Main Fuel Relay. If you get the same intermittent voltage, this indicates key switch assy is faulty and should be replaced.
If voltage always appears at red/wht, then you have a intermittent wiring fault or main fuel relay fault, despite earlier relay replacement.
good luck
Suggest checking keyswitch Red/Wht wire at the fuse box which supplies power from ignition switch assy through fuse 2 (15A) to Main Fuel Relay. If you get the same intermittent voltage, this indicates key switch assy is faulty and should be replaced.
If voltage always appears at red/wht, then you have a intermittent wiring fault or main fuel relay fault, despite earlier relay replacement.
good luck
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JimboBigLotto
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07-02-2011 01:46 PM