Hi Guys-

I just finished the Head Gasket, valve adjustments on F22b1--1994 Honda Accord EX A/T.

I took the car out and when I try to Throttle the car, seems like it has no power and it's not moving??

If I put the car in reverse, it works just fine, while in D3 and D4, almost 'Zero' power, what is it and what could be the possible reason?

Also, car is SOUNDING horrible, like old Diesel truck, while before doing the Head Gasket, it ran fin and like a charm.

Car starts and Idles perfectly fine. Head was resurfaced/cleaned from the machine shop and I have used Fel-Pro HG.

What do you guys suggest now?? Also, if the valves are too tight, will the car sound horrible with no power??

Looking forward to the advises. Thanks very much for helping out.

On the same note, I did the compression test just now:
#1=200, #2=190, #3=170, #4=175

 

It sounds like you are having a transmission issue..does the rpm gauge go up when you put the car into a forward gear?

What does the transmission fluid look like?

 

No, RPM does not go up and that's the problem

Before doing the HG transmission and engine both were except the overheating issue.

If it would be a timing issue between the Cam gear and Crank, what kind of problems I will be having?Or if the valves are too loose will I be having loss of power?

I changed the transmission fluid with Genuine HONDA A/T fluid nearly 3-4 months ago, so it's still pink/red in color.

 

What are the color of the three wires you have connected to the MAP sensor?

 

Please see the picture attached, it seems like '2' yellow and '1' green.

I am really thankful and grateful to you for helping out.

 

Also, what would happen if intake and exhaust valve clearance is not right? How the engine would react if they are too loose or tight?

 

Please pull back the cover a bit and confirm that the wires to the MAP are YEL/WHT - GRN/WHT - WHT/YEL. Looks and sounds like they are correct - the connector for the MAP and TPS are the same shape/size and sometimes after work like you have done they get switched.

While waiting on the other repair - recheck the timing marks and the valve lash.

 

Thanks again, please have a look on the new picture.

It seems like White/Yellow/Green or Yellow/Green.

Yes, I am going to check and fix the timing marks and valve lash, for valve lash.

As soon as I feel feeler gauge has a drag, should I tighten the locking nut with a box wrench while keeping the screw driver in place?

BTW, poor power and car not willing to move are timing and valve lash symptoms?

Thank you for the help.

 

Can you "zoom out" a bit. It is early but that "looks" like the TPS?

EDIT: Never mind - I turned my computer side ways and had some more coffee

 

Hahaha, thanks for helping out again.

I am actually pretty sure about the MAP sensor because it's wire is larger compared to the TPS, but again mistakes happen and of course I am in learning phase so please feel free to correct.

OK, another quick question, in order to perfectly adjust the timing, Crank is the best way to go since I pulled the camshaft while doing the HG by sliding the belt off of cam gear, right? Please have a look on the attached picture from the FSM.

Also, grove on the rocker arm assembly needs to be aligned with the "Up" mark on the Cam gear or it's not relevant? Please see in my 2nd picture.

Because if 'Crank' is the best way to go for TDC, I will just remove the rocker arm and adjust the cam gear 'Up' accordingly.

Looking forward to a response and help.