To verify if the fans work, try jumping the coolant temp sensor connector with a paperclip. It is found on the thermostat housing...It is a 2 wire green snap connector. If you turn on the AC, the driverside fan should be running. Next, If you jump the connector, the fans will both run. I would suggest you replace the thermostat, radiator cap, and coolant temp sensor. It will cost you about $70 with a gallon of QUALITY coolant....ONLY buy Honda OEM parts, aftermarket junk is just that...JUNK. Be sure to fill the radiator and overflow bottle to the correct levels...Use a minimum 50/50 and a maximum 70/30 coolant to water mix. Since you live in a hot and humid enviroment in Florida, I would mix it 60/40 coolant to water. Carry a spare gallon of premixed coolant/water and a funnel in the trunk to be safe.

I just finished fixing a coolant leak on my 1993 LX...The water inlet hose from the head to the heater core rotted from a small oil leak. I lost about a quart of coolant in only 10 miles, so this needed to be fixed. Replaced the hose and coolant, bled the system and it doesn't leak a drop now. Next will be a new distributor subassembly and o-ring to fix the small oil leak...

 

Even more work but fewer $$$ is to fix the fan motor. From what I've seen, carbon brush material gets into the bearing and stops the motor, even though there's plenty of length left on the brushes. Prying the motor apart, cleaning and lubing the bearings, and putting it back together has worked for me on two fans. The brush holders have convenient ears that can be used to hook the brush leads onto so the motor can be reassembled, and you just need to use a skinny screwdriver to unhook the brush leads from those ears once the brushes are in place over the commutator.

 

I've tried this repair w/ very limited success and had a couple of questions.

Where did you find replacement brushes?

How did you hold the brushes retracted while installing over the commutator.

Regards

 

TexasHonda, I've only fixed two fans, but in both cases there was plenty of brush material left so I didn't replace them. There are two "ears" on the brush holder. Those ears are perfect for looping the brush leads over to keep the brushes held back from the commutator. Then you assemble the motor, keeping it open just a crack so you can reach in with a skinny screwdriver or awl to flip the brush leads off of the ears to seat the brushes to the commutator.

An electric motor repair shop would probably fix you up with new brushes if they are too short. Since I didn't have to replace them I don't remember how the brush leads are installed, if they were soldered or screwed to the motor.

 

thanks for info. It's been some time since I tried this. In one case I failed to get back together, and in other the motor only lasted 6 months before failng again. I found some brush material at local hardware and shaped to fit, however it was higher resistance material than original and motor ran slower for selected speed. I haven't had to repair a motor since.

In some cases, the labor to get to the blower is consdierable, and a new motor is best to reduce potential for re-do.

regards

 

Ok so last night I noticed that the coolant in my car had gone down quite a bit. So I refilled the radiator with coolant and I noticed that behind the drivers side fan (the one that has never worked in my car) there is coolant coming out at a fairly steady pace. Upon further inspection it looks like the blades of the fan at some point had dug into the metal mesh looking stuff on the radiator and I guess just after stress on the spot where that happened a hole finally formed. I went to walmart and bought some radiator sealer. I poured the sealer into the radiator, let the car run with the heat on for thirty minutes, then I let the car sit for about 16 hours total. I then topped off the coolant and ran the car for a couple minutes and everything seemed to be fine but when I drove my car down the road and back the leak started again. However this time there was only coolant coming out of one hole instead of two holes. Im guessing this issue with the radiator has something if not everything to do with my car overheating. Should I invest in another bottle of sealant? Does anyone know of any way to "patch" a small hole in a radiator? Or should I just go ahead and spend the money on a new radiator?

 

I beleive the core of the radiator is the area that is leaking. I'm sure that it is made of aluminum and the tanks are plastic. Not sure how this could be patched, or how long it would hold. Don't waste any more money on the stop leak stuff...Do the right thing and replace the radiator, thermostat and both hoses. You don't want to get stuck if it continues to lose coolant and overheat.

 

Is there a link you could provide with a "how-to" guide on replacing the radiator, hoses, and thermostat?

 

Sorry-- No link that I know of to post for this procedure. I have always done my own service and have "learned by doing" on various cars I have owned. I am sure somebody in the DIY forum could help you. Do a google search for replacing your radiator and thermostat. You really should also buy the Haynes Service Manual for your Accord and invite a buddy over to lend a hand. Don't buy aftermarket parts...They aren't worth a damn, only buy OEM Honda hoses, radiator cap, and themostat. Take your time and do it correctly...Good Luck !!

 

Go to the Common DIY Thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open the online shop manuals link. The honda-tech link will have a 94 shop manual with all of the instructions to do this.