1994 Honda Accord very rough idle/cold start
#1
1994 Honda Accord very rough idle/cold start
1994 Honda Accord 2.2L 4cyl. automatic trans.
I recently purchased a '94 Accord and the idle is rough, and it is very hard to keep running when it hasn't been started for 4-5 hours.After 3-5mins. of working the accelerator to keep it running, it finally settles a little and will stay running on it's on.Then as you're driving it, anytime you take your foot off the gas and it starts slowing down it does a weird 'puttering'.For example if I'm doing 40mph and release the gas, it will putt...putt...putt until the needle gets to about 26-28mph, and then it(idle) levels out to normal after that.
It sounds/runs normal when you put it in 'Drive' and just sitting still...it idles rough in 'Park', and it is hard to keep it running in 'Reverse'????
The check engine light is also on.
My ideas for what to check are idle control valve, egr valve, and for leaks/holes in vacuum lines.
Am I on the right track, and if so, is there a way to ''test" the egr and idle control valves, without having to actually go and just start buying parts until something works.
Is there something I'm overlooking?
I've only done an oil change, cleaned the idle control valve with carb. cleaner, and started checking lines/hoses.No change.
Could dirty plugs cause/contribute to this problem?
Thanks for any advice.
I recently purchased a '94 Accord and the idle is rough, and it is very hard to keep running when it hasn't been started for 4-5 hours.After 3-5mins. of working the accelerator to keep it running, it finally settles a little and will stay running on it's on.Then as you're driving it, anytime you take your foot off the gas and it starts slowing down it does a weird 'puttering'.For example if I'm doing 40mph and release the gas, it will putt...putt...putt until the needle gets to about 26-28mph, and then it(idle) levels out to normal after that.
It sounds/runs normal when you put it in 'Drive' and just sitting still...it idles rough in 'Park', and it is hard to keep it running in 'Reverse'????
The check engine light is also on.
My ideas for what to check are idle control valve, egr valve, and for leaks/holes in vacuum lines.
Am I on the right track, and if so, is there a way to ''test" the egr and idle control valves, without having to actually go and just start buying parts until something works.
Is there something I'm overlooking?
I've only done an oil change, cleaned the idle control valve with carb. cleaner, and started checking lines/hoses.No change.
Could dirty plugs cause/contribute to this problem?
Thanks for any advice.
#2
The check engine light means the engine computer detected a problem and stored a code. You need to get the error code and that will identify what is wrong with your car.
Use a thin paperclip or a piece of wire to short the service connector. See: dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html for the procedure.
Let us know what code you get and we can help you out.
Use a thin paperclip or a piece of wire to short the service connector. See: dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html for the procedure.
Let us know what code you get and we can help you out.
#3
No luck with codes
I tried this technique with a paper clip and the check engine light would just come on and stay on while I had the clip in, and go off and stay off when I disconnected it.I couldn't get it to actually blink.??
#4
That means there's no error-codes stored.
Since your CEL is on, check the back-up fuse. If that's blown it'll erase the codes whenever you turn off the key.
Or try this...
Drive around until the CEL comes on, then park but leave the engine running (CEL would stay on). Put in the paperclip without turning off the key.
Since your CEL is on, check the back-up fuse. If that's blown it'll erase the codes whenever you turn off the key.
Or try this...
Drive around until the CEL comes on, then park but leave the engine running (CEL would stay on). Put in the paperclip without turning off the key.
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