OK, Update Time;

I checked the Codes and there aren't any.

The CEL just stayed lit for the entire time the OBDI pins were bridged.

not sure if that points to igntion switch issue or not, I am reading through the codes to see what's ruled out, but I'm not sure how accurate my OBD is (i.e. does it always catch every issue)

 

If the CEL doesn't blink when the Service Check Connector is jumped, there is the possibility the ECU is bad.

techauto.awardspace.com/ecu.html

Stalling is also a symptom of a bad ECU. You can dowload the service manual from the link in the "sticky" in this forum and refer to section 11-16.

 

The OBD1 codes are more general than OBD2. Here is an example for a MAP sensor:

OBD1
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor

OBD2
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

Both are pointing towards a problem with the map sensor or the wiring. An OBD1 code 3 encompasses all three problems detected by OBD2.

 

And another update.

I found a ground that was completely rotted out, I replaced the Ground.
This did not fix my stall but it did fix the ECU interface.

I drove around until the car got warm then it stalled again, this time the CEL gave me LSSSSS (code 15).
I got the car started again and it stalled again, I checked the codes again and got 15 again.
I started the car a third time and managed to drive home (2 blocks) the car then stalled about a block away and I was able to coast to a stop at home, which is perfect incase I need to troubleshoot some more (which I doubt).

Code -15 Ignition output signal sure that ends my trouble

I'm pretty sure that ends my troubleshooting phase, now on to the repair (forum search).

 

Where was the ground located?

If you go to the common diy threads on top of this forum, there is a link for online shop manuals. When that thread opens, go to the hondatech link in the first post and download a 94 shop manual. That will show the locations of the grounds in the electrical section.

A code 15 is a problem with the igniter. It is pretty simple to replace, but is pretty expensive new. I would do some electrical tests to see if this is a problem with the wiring first. Also inspect the wiring for damage. The igniter is in the distributor under the distributor cap and has four wires going to it.

 

No... reading the code is the BEGINNING of the troubleshooting.

The "ignition output signal" is the circuit where the ECU tells the ignitor to fire the coil. Might be a flaky wiring connection between the ECU and the distributor. Might be a failing ignitor (inside the distributor).

 

DANGIT!!!

I read ignition output signal as pointing to the faulty ignition switch that plagues the 96+ Accords...

alright then back to the Troubleshooting, I have the wiring diagrams, and a soldering gun...

 

You will need a volt meter to do the tests on the wiring to the igniter. Also look at the wires to see if any insulation is worn off. That can cause problems. Test first before repairing.

O'Reillys auto parts stores can test igniters. I would call before you go to see your local O'Reillys can test it, if you have on O'Reillys nearby.

Igniters do fail, but are typically durable. New ones are ridiculously expensive. I would get one from a junkyard or a u-pull-it yard, so it shouldn't cost much. Ebay is another option. The 94, 95, or 96 DX or LX have the same igniter (not an EX or V6). The 97 igniter has a different part number, so only 94-96 to play it safe.

 

OK prefect thanks.

anyone know where I can find the ECU (or info on how to locate the ECU)?

edit:
never mind:

 

OK,
maybe i'm missing this but us there a wiring diagram for the ECU? I found a flowchart and self test procedure form the manuals in the sticky but no actual ECU wiring diagram