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1996 Accord LX only starting sometimes

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  #11  
Old 08-05-2010, 07:18 PM
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Breaking News!!! Was finally able to get it to not start. Yay! Tested for spark, and Houston....we have NO spark.

What do I test next?
 
  #12  
Old 08-05-2010, 07:55 PM
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Sure sounding like the ICM. I would test that to make sure, might be a bit hard as when it's cold everthing seems to work but when warm it is not. You checked the switch, I think the coil as well. The next thinkg in line would be the ICM. Four or 6 cyl, I might have missed that.
 
  #13  
Old 08-05-2010, 07:59 PM
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Have you had the code(s) scanned at a parts store like autozone? The check engine light should stay on if the PCM detected a problem. It is worth a shot.

Also, inspect the wires that go to the ICM (4 wires under the distributor cap) to ensure that they aren't damaged.

See if the blk/yel wire going to the coil has 12V when it isn't starting.
 
  #14  
Old 08-05-2010, 08:07 PM
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Sorry....I think Jim asked me earlier and I forgot to answer. It is the 2.2L in my Accord. I have not checked the coil yet.

Can someone please link to the sticky that PAHonda mentioned earlier?
 
  #15  
Old 08-05-2010, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Have you had the code(s) scanned at a parts store like autozone? The check engine light should stay on if the PCM detected a problem. It is worth a shot.

Also, inspect the wires that go to the ICM (4 wires under the distributor cap) to ensure that they aren't damaged.

See if the blk/yel wire going to the coil has 12V when it isn't starting.
The CEL doesn't stay on. Operates normally as per the main relay check. I hate intermittent problems. I wish it would just not work!!!
 
  #16  
Old 08-05-2010, 08:14 PM
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Here is the tegger site: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html

Look under starting problems.

It is worth a shot to have the code(s) scanned just to make sure a sensor like the ECT, etc aren't throwing a code.
 
  #17  
Old 08-05-2010, 08:21 PM
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Google tegger.com and you should be good. Look for the FAQ on the left side....here is the part where I get in trouble. ICM's can act up when hot, located in/around the dist, and be fine when they are cool/cold. Almost the same as main relays expanding in the heat. In the old days before epa, ozone, ect some "mechanics" (a tech would test first) would shoot freon/134a on the ICM to cool it off to see if the vehicle would start. I prefer/suggest the volt meter method but it can be hard to get to it when hot and acting up.
 

Last edited by poorman212; 08-06-2010 at 06:22 PM. Reason: to be clear
  #18  
Old 08-05-2010, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Here is the tegger site: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html

Look under starting problems.

It is worth a shot to have the code(s) scanned just to make sure a sensor like the ECT, etc aren't throwing a code.
Good idea. It's free any way, so I'll swing by there tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the link.
 
  #19  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:47 AM
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Update: What an adventure I had this morning. Took the car to Autozone this morning to have them read any codes that might be stored, and there weren't any. Spoke with the guy there about the problem. He said it was probably the ignition switch. I did do the wiggle test you had suggested, and the motor never cut off.

Anyway, I had the guy look up the cost/availability of the tune up parts, and to my surprise, Autozone didn't even have a cap for my car. Frustrated, I decided to go across the street to Advance Auto. Luckily, one of the guys who worked there is a Honda guy. He immediately suspected the main relay when I told him about the problem. I told him all that I did to eliminate the relay.

He came outside with me to verify that I have the TEC distributor, and suggested the lack of spark when it's not starting could be the coil or the ICM. I told him I would go home and measure the resistance on the coil. I go outside, and the car won't start. I go back inside and get him. He said, "I have that part in stock, so let's just put it on and see if it fixes the problem" So we swapped out the coil right there in the parking lot. The car starts right up. He says "do you think it is the new coil or the fact that the car has cooled down?" We put the old one back in...the car starts right up. grrrrr!!! frustrating!!!!!

The good news is that they have a customer who specializes in Hondas, and therefore have a lot of Honda parts in stock.

So, I head home to put things apart and inspect, clean, measure volts/ohms. I make it less than a block and it dies at a red light on a major intersection...Won't restart...I'm holding up traffic....wait for the green arrow again and push the car across the intersection and into a car repair shop parking lot. I finally relented and asked them to take a look at it.

The guy tests for spark and tells me it's not getting spark....duh! He then tells me that for a $140 diagnostic fee, he can tell me exactly what is causing the no spark. I asked if that fee went away if I had them do the repair.....nope! So he said I could leave it there and come back for it after it cools down. He also said that it is probably the distributor. So, I have my wife come pick me up and I leave the Accord at the shop.

We come back 40 minutes later, start the car, and bring it home. That's where I am right now. I haven't done anything at this point, but I wanted to update the thread while it is fresh in my mind.
 
  #20  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:09 PM
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You guys aren't replying to me now and I feel like I'm talking to myself a bit. Anyway, here is the latest (the saga continues and new characters are introduced into the plot).

I inspected the wires....they look pretty good, no breakage in the rubber, and the ends are nice shiny metal.

I then begin to disassemble the distributor cap. I break loose the first 2 screws, and then reach under to get the 3rd one. To my surprise, I pull my hand out and find that my fingers are covered with fresh oil. I noticed before the oil in the spark plug holes, but wasn't expecting to find it here. I take off the cap, and there is oil inside the cap on one side. I'm sure it's not what is causing the no spark, but I don't think it's good. I cleaned it all up and re-assembled.

I start the car and it starts and runs great. **New character alert** I leave the car running and take my dog #1 for a walk. By the time I get back to the driveway, the car has stopped running. I take dog #1 inside and hook up dog #2. I stop by the car to make sure it isn't starting (that would be the pattern) and it starts. I leave it running again and proceed to walk the dog. Again, it is cut off by the time we get back. This time...no start...same symptoms...time to troubleshoot.

I turned the key to the On position and measured the BLK/YEL wire on the 4P going to the coil. I got 12V. Car still not starting. Ask my wife for her help and I check for spark on other side of coil. Car starts...and I got GREAT spark coming from coil. Turn the car off and repeat. No start, and no spark.

Where does this leave me? ICM and/or distributor I think. How do I test these?

At this point, I haven't checked the spark plugs, but no spark from coil tells me I can wait on replacing them. Thoughts?
 


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