1996 Accord LX only starting sometimes
#31
Since you are ordering an ICM, there are two other simple tests that you should try just to be thorough.
If you still have the connection at the coil back-probed, hook the test light up to the blk/yel wire and ground the other end of the test light to a valve cover bolt. The light should stay on all of the time when the car starts or does not start.
Back-probe the yellow wire at the coil. Hook the test light up from the yel to ground like above. The light should stay on all of the time as before.
Finally, connect the the test light across the yel and grn wires. Let us know if it flashes when the car starts and doesn't start.
If you still have the connection at the coil back-probed, hook the test light up to the blk/yel wire and ground the other end of the test light to a valve cover bolt. The light should stay on all of the time when the car starts or does not start.
Back-probe the yellow wire at the coil. Hook the test light up from the yel to ground like above. The light should stay on all of the time as before.
Finally, connect the the test light across the yel and grn wires. Let us know if it flashes when the car starts and doesn't start.
#32
Okay. Car started right away of course. But it eventually died out and wouldn't restart. Here's the results:
Car started:
YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and running
BLK/YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and running
Test light between GRN and YEL - flashing as it started and continued flashing while running
Car not starting:
YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and also while cranking
BLK/YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and also while cranking
Test light between GRN and YEL - NO flashing as it was cranking (except occasionally when it kind of started)
Bad ICM for sure?
Car started:
YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and running
BLK/YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and running
Test light between GRN and YEL - flashing as it started and continued flashing while running
Car not starting:
YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and also while cranking
BLK/YEL wire - good 12V with key in II and also while cranking
Test light between GRN and YEL - NO flashing as it was cranking (except occasionally when it kind of started)
Bad ICM for sure?
#35
Update. This morning, I begin to disassemble the distributor and take out the bad ICM. I discover that the heatsink on the ICM is soaked in oil. I had originally thought the oil was getting in through the cap gasket, but I'm convinced now that the grommet is shot on the distributor. So, instead of messing with the O-ring and grommet replacement, I find out from the parts store how much for the whole assembly. So, instead of buying the ICM for $125 (which would probably get soaked with oil and have the same problem eventually), I'm going to buy a whole new distributor assembly and be done with it. I'm also going to replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals. Can someone link to that DIY thread for me? I can't seem to find it. Thanks.
#36
Distributor and valve cover gasket/tube seals replaced. Car is running much better. Drove it all around town, and it didn't die once. Starts every time. It is idling a little rough, but other than that....I'm a happy honda owner! Thanks again.
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