1997 Accord KEEPS STALLING AT IDLE! PLEASE HELP!
#1
1997 Accord KEEPS STALLING AT IDLE! PLEASE HELP!
My car has been running like crap for for a while now, and always had an issue with the idle, but as long as I kept it in park or neutral it would stay running. Now after replacing my timing belt, water pump, crank position sensor, spark plugs and wires, and the IAT sensor, the car stalls no matter what I do, UNLESS im giving the motor some gas.
When driving you would think there was nothing wrong with the car until you come to a stop. One thing thats kinda weird is yesterday I went to autozone and I was only getting 1 CEL CODE which was P0118, and it said the IAT sensor was messed up, I replaced it, and went to autozone today so they could check the codes again, and I got rid of all the codes, but now I just got a new code out of nowhere after fixing everything for one of the oxygen sensors =/
Its weird too cause right after I replaced the IAC sensor the car started right up on a cold morning start up, which is super rare and never happened before, then after I let it heat up a little bit, right when I switch to drive, the car went from smooth perfect running to the motor running a little rough, and then it just stalled.
Ok so pretty much bottom line, the car starts right up as long as I step slightly on the gas, but if I let go of the gas pedal even for a sec it stalls. While driving the car has full power, if I floor it its got plenty of torque, but right when I get to a stop, or even making a damn turn the car turns, anytime the car hits 1000 rpms or lower the needle just drops and the car stalls..
Sorry if I repeated myself alot there, I just like to make sure the readers know everything I am experiencing. PLEASE SOMEONE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION! =P THANKS!
Also heres a pic of the CEL CODE im getting..
When driving you would think there was nothing wrong with the car until you come to a stop. One thing thats kinda weird is yesterday I went to autozone and I was only getting 1 CEL CODE which was P0118, and it said the IAT sensor was messed up, I replaced it, and went to autozone today so they could check the codes again, and I got rid of all the codes, but now I just got a new code out of nowhere after fixing everything for one of the oxygen sensors =/
Its weird too cause right after I replaced the IAC sensor the car started right up on a cold morning start up, which is super rare and never happened before, then after I let it heat up a little bit, right when I switch to drive, the car went from smooth perfect running to the motor running a little rough, and then it just stalled.
Ok so pretty much bottom line, the car starts right up as long as I step slightly on the gas, but if I let go of the gas pedal even for a sec it stalls. While driving the car has full power, if I floor it its got plenty of torque, but right when I get to a stop, or even making a damn turn the car turns, anytime the car hits 1000 rpms or lower the needle just drops and the car stalls..
Sorry if I repeated myself alot there, I just like to make sure the readers know everything I am experiencing. PLEASE SOMEONE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION! =P THANKS!
Also heres a pic of the CEL CODE im getting..
#2
hey there,1st.let me ask you has it back fired?
you said you had your timing belt replaced,do you know if they adjusted your valves after they replaced the timing belt?shuld have been done!
next you want to check for good connectivity at the battery and the alternator?
If you look at the causes on the reciept you posted you will notice it says poor electric connection and or open circuit?meaning there is a electrical wire that is grounding out ,look for a bare wire around the distributor and coil area.
do those few things 1st. if that dont work reply back and ill give you more suggestions,take your time and do it to the best of your ability!
you said you had your timing belt replaced,do you know if they adjusted your valves after they replaced the timing belt?shuld have been done!
next you want to check for good connectivity at the battery and the alternator?
If you look at the causes on the reciept you posted you will notice it says poor electric connection and or open circuit?meaning there is a electrical wire that is grounding out ,look for a bare wire around the distributor and coil area.
do those few things 1st. if that dont work reply back and ill give you more suggestions,take your time and do it to the best of your ability!
#3
There is no back fire, and im not sure if he adjusted the valves, but he did say the timing was slightly off and he fixed that, but theres a couple things I forgot to say,
First is when I start the car in the morning it starts right up and stays on without stalling until it gets a little hot,
and 2nd, whenever im driving, my temp gauge drops to cold and I have to smack my dash to get it to go back to where it was, just below the middle, more to cold though..
im wondering if maybe since this car was in limp mode for like a year, and wasnt ever able to be pushed, after getting it fixed I did kinda push it, and some ppl say my catalytic converter might be clogged, and that it being clogged could send that cel code for the O2 sensor thats sitting right next to the Cat... but idk, Im just taking all the info I can =P
First is when I start the car in the morning it starts right up and stays on without stalling until it gets a little hot,
and 2nd, whenever im driving, my temp gauge drops to cold and I have to smack my dash to get it to go back to where it was, just below the middle, more to cold though..
im wondering if maybe since this car was in limp mode for like a year, and wasnt ever able to be pushed, after getting it fixed I did kinda push it, and some ppl say my catalytic converter might be clogged, and that it being clogged could send that cel code for the O2 sensor thats sitting right next to the Cat... but idk, Im just taking all the info I can =P
Last edited by argarcia86; 07-02-2012 at 01:02 PM.
#4
I would have the mechanic check the timing marks to be sure the crank and cam pulleys are in time.
The O2 sensor code you are getting is for the secondary O2 sensor and will not change how the car runs.
I would also look around your engine bay to make sure that all of the grounds were reattached.
Did you get the code(s) read after the timing belt was replaced?
The O2 sensor code you are getting is for the secondary O2 sensor and will not change how the car runs.
I would also look around your engine bay to make sure that all of the grounds were reattached.
Did you get the code(s) read after the timing belt was replaced?
#5
after the the timing belt and water pump were replaced, the only code that was coming up was for the IAT sensor, and before I switched that sensor, the car would only stall sometimes on a cold start, but once it heat up it would drive perfect, now its like the total opposite. my power steering belt just broke in half, and the other half is still somehow still turning lol, that wouldnt have anything to do with it right?
#8
Clean the IACV, clean and adjust the FITV, then adjust the base idle, in that order. All three of these procedures are in the Common DIY Threads page; the first sticky on these forum.
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