1997 Honda Accord Temp Gauge Fluctuating
#1
1997 Honda Accord Temp Gauge Fluctuating
When I'm on the freeway, the temp gauge fluctuates about once every 1-3 minutes between the halfway mark and the "red" zone but it never actually touches the red zone. Based on my observation, it fluctuates between 55% and 80% of the gauge but never reaches 100% or the red zone.
When I turn the car off, the cooling fan does come on to cool the coolant which is normal I believe.
Keep in mind that it is 106 degrees F here in Texas.
I just want to know if this is normal or is there anything I can do to keep it from fluctuating so much. If it's relevant, I kept my speed at a constant 60mph and 55mph for several stretches of high way.
Note: The AC doesn't get cold, it needs to be recharged
When I turn the car off, the cooling fan does come on to cool the coolant which is normal I believe.
Keep in mind that it is 106 degrees F here in Texas.
I just want to know if this is normal or is there anything I can do to keep it from fluctuating so much. If it's relevant, I kept my speed at a constant 60mph and 55mph for several stretches of high way.
Note: The AC doesn't get cold, it needs to be recharged
#2
A few things.
Check the coolant level and confirm.
AC on, do both fans run?
Car on, ac off, and it gets to temp-in the driveway this might ake 20~30 minutes- do both fans cycle on and off?
Any recent work to the car, do you know when the t-stat was changed last.
Temp getting to those ranges on the gauge, something isn't right....not to the red so not a panic but something needs attention.
EDIT: at speed, there should be enough air moving thru the rad that the fans don't really matter but worth checking.
Check the coolant level and confirm.
AC on, do both fans run?
Car on, ac off, and it gets to temp-in the driveway this might ake 20~30 minutes- do both fans cycle on and off?
Any recent work to the car, do you know when the t-stat was changed last.
Temp getting to those ranges on the gauge, something isn't right....not to the red so not a panic but something needs attention.
EDIT: at speed, there should be enough air moving thru the rad that the fans don't really matter but worth checking.
Last edited by poorman212; 08-28-2011 at 03:58 PM. Reason: added info
#3
There is coolant inside the radiator, but my uncle took a look at it and determined that there wasn't enough although you could physically see the coolant circulating, it, according to him, wasn't enough coolant.
Also: The radiator-coolant overflow reservoir is nearly empty, there's VERY LITTLE coolant in there, is that a problem?
Yes they both do, is that normal?
Yes definitely
I have absolutely no idea if the thermostat was changed or not as I just bought the car today. It has 123,765 miles on it and the engine feels really strong. It honestly doesn't look like anything under the hood was ever changed, though given the mileage, not much should be wrong with it to warrant a major change at least... I hope I'm right, I don't want to spend ungodly amounts of money on repairs as I'm a college student
Do you think it's a good idea to go ahead and fork over the $20 for a new thermostat just to be on the safe side?
I do agree! That's why I'm here
Okidoke, thanks a lot!
Also: The radiator-coolant overflow reservoir is nearly empty, there's VERY LITTLE coolant in there, is that a problem?
Yes they both do, is that normal?
Do you think it's a good idea to go ahead and fork over the $20 for a new thermostat just to be on the safe side?
Okidoke, thanks a lot!
#4
Do both fans turn on when the coolant temperature starts to rise?
You may want to rent a radiator pressure tester from the parts store. You have to put down a deposit and get your money back when you return it.
The radiator should hold around 16 psi for a while. You can see if the radiator cap is holding pressure.
Try to find out what maintenance was done on the car. The Honda Dealership may have a record based on the VIN of your car. The one item you want to verify is the timing belt and water pump.
You may want to rent a radiator pressure tester from the parts store. You have to put down a deposit and get your money back when you return it.
The radiator should hold around 16 psi for a while. You can see if the radiator cap is holding pressure.
Try to find out what maintenance was done on the car. The Honda Dealership may have a record based on the VIN of your car. The one item you want to verify is the timing belt and water pump.
#5
Yes both fans turn on after i let the car idle for about 15 minutes and they both come on when I turn the AC on.
Update: I just filled the radiator over flow tank as it was pretty empty.
Also there is a red light that looks like it's on the left side of the steering wheel where the cruise control cluster is. What does that mean? It's not flashing or anything and honestly, I can't tell if it's illuminated but it looks as though it is.
Update: I just filled the radiator over flow tank as it was pretty empty.
Also there is a red light that looks like it's on the left side of the steering wheel where the cruise control cluster is. What does that mean? It's not flashing or anything and honestly, I can't tell if it's illuminated but it looks as though it is.
Last edited by IllusionistK; 08-29-2011 at 03:18 PM.
#6
I'm not sure what light you are referencing. Maybe post a picture?
Prolonged overheating can cause damage to the head gasket. Since you just got this car, I would buy a Honda thermostat (~$20 at the dealership). And I would drain the coolant, replace the thermostat, then refill. The thermostat is relatively inexpensive. Coolant is maintenance item that you will need to do eventually.
Search for zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube. This shows how to fill and bleed the cooling system on a 94-97 2.2L accord.
Prolonged overheating can cause damage to the head gasket. Since you just got this car, I would buy a Honda thermostat (~$20 at the dealership). And I would drain the coolant, replace the thermostat, then refill. The thermostat is relatively inexpensive. Coolant is maintenance item that you will need to do eventually.
Search for zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube. This shows how to fill and bleed the cooling system on a 94-97 2.2L accord.
#7
The light, without pic's, I'd bet someone once had and alarm system and that was/is the light for that.
#8
Thanks a lot, I'll def get that picture and pick up a thermostat(I already priced them at Autozone for around $15)
Also, I drove for about 15 miles today on the freeway and the temp gauge never went above the middle line(This was after I topped the empty over flow tank).
When I was on the freeway, the car made some weird feint noise that sounded like it was revving really high - like a motor cycle at high RPMs but it wasn't loud. The car didn't jerk or anything and the RPM gauge didn't move.
The dealer that I bought it from said that I need to get the transmission flushed; that it was "about that time." Is it wise to do so? @ what mileage does it require a change.
Also, I drove for about 15 miles today on the freeway and the temp gauge never went above the middle line(This was after I topped the empty over flow tank).
When I was on the freeway, the car made some weird feint noise that sounded like it was revving really high - like a motor cycle at high RPMs but it wasn't loud. The car didn't jerk or anything and the RPM gauge didn't move.
The dealer that I bought it from said that I need to get the transmission flushed; that it was "about that time." Is it wise to do so? @ what mileage does it require a change.
#10
Update: Check engine light came on today while driving on the freeway -- The temp gauge has yet to go above the half-way mark since I filled the radiator overflow tank.
Also: When I'm traveling on the freeway and I decelerate, I hear this high-revving sound as if I hit the rev limiter, but the rev counter is nowhere near the 6k+ red line... It's more around the 2-3k revolution range.
The guy that sold the car to me mentioned this revving sound and suggested that I get the transmission fluid changed and the transmission flushed.
What do you guys think?
Also: When I'm traveling on the freeway and I decelerate, I hear this high-revving sound as if I hit the rev limiter, but the rev counter is nowhere near the 6k+ red line... It's more around the 2-3k revolution range.
The guy that sold the car to me mentioned this revving sound and suggested that I get the transmission fluid changed and the transmission flushed.
What do you guys think?