1998 Accord battery issue
#1
1998 Accord battery issue
Working with a 98 with 223k miles. I have replaced the battery, starter and alternator in the last 6 months.
I'm not driving it everyday for work now but it seems like there's an issue with the battery changing/holding a charge.
Monday it wouldn't turn over so used jump box. Drove it about 40 mins with 20 on the highway. Didn't drive Tuesday. Wednesday it wouldn't start again and had to use jump box. It has been doing this a lot--where it feels like I drive it a bunch one day (and 1 hour or 45 mins with lots of highway) and then 2-3 days later it won't turn over.
Today I tested the voltage of battery and its good. Then the alternator without and with load and its in the recommended range (with AC, lights, radio its not below 14v).
Would you all suggest testing something else or somewhere else to look?
I'm not driving it everyday for work now but it seems like there's an issue with the battery changing/holding a charge.
Monday it wouldn't turn over so used jump box. Drove it about 40 mins with 20 on the highway. Didn't drive Tuesday. Wednesday it wouldn't start again and had to use jump box. It has been doing this a lot--where it feels like I drive it a bunch one day (and 1 hour or 45 mins with lots of highway) and then 2-3 days later it won't turn over.
Today I tested the voltage of battery and its good. Then the alternator without and with load and its in the recommended range (with AC, lights, radio its not below 14v).
Would you all suggest testing something else or somewhere else to look?
#2
You can do a parasitic draw test to see if you have an accessory or module draining the battery. You can google how to perform that test.
Does the battery test drained when you can't start the car. If so do the parasitic draw yes.
Does the battery test drained when you can't start the car. If so do the parasitic draw yes.
#3
Thanks Sean. I wasn't getting a reading with my volt meter (on millivolts) so I just read the volts one night which were 12.7. The next morning it was 12.69. So if I'm understanding correctly not a substantial drop and therefore no parasitic draw?
Is it possible that there's a parasitic draw that isn't happening all the time?
Is it possible that there's a parasitic draw that isn't happening all the time?
#4
What type battery do you have in the car. CCA wise. Test on the day you can't start the car. That's odd you didn't get a reading especially if you have an alarm on the car. Open the door and see if you get a reading.
#6
Hey Sean, Circle
I've been waiting to get a little more info. I still can't get the drop test to work but I've been checking the voltage in the battery each day looking for changes. Yesterday it was 12.59v. I got in the car and it barely turned over. It did but barely. I took it on the highway for about 30 minutes and then in the city for another 10. It seemed strange that it wouldn't turn over with 12.59v...that's close to a full charge if I'm not mistaken. Then I went outside today and it wouldn't start. I tried jumping it with a jump box and nothing.
What could be causing this?
The connections are snug. One of the negative ground cables is grounded to a different spot now (on the manifold) but I've sanded the connection and it looks good. The other ground is good. The starter, alternator and the battery are all new. I've tested the alternator with load and its working as it should.
Any ideas?
I've been waiting to get a little more info. I still can't get the drop test to work but I've been checking the voltage in the battery each day looking for changes. Yesterday it was 12.59v. I got in the car and it barely turned over. It did but barely. I took it on the highway for about 30 minutes and then in the city for another 10. It seemed strange that it wouldn't turn over with 12.59v...that's close to a full charge if I'm not mistaken. Then I went outside today and it wouldn't start. I tried jumping it with a jump box and nothing.
What could be causing this?
The connections are snug. One of the negative ground cables is grounded to a different spot now (on the manifold) but I've sanded the connection and it looks good. The other ground is good. The starter, alternator and the battery are all new. I've tested the alternator with load and its working as it should.
Any ideas?
#7
have the battery tested ,, chk each cell electrolite test ''Also chk voltage when you are trying to start car ,When you start a car, the battery should never drop below 11.8 while starter is going. A bad battery will drop to 10.4 while cranking because of lack of being able to store a charge.