Gumby.

I don't like starting an argument either. I just want folks that eventually read this thread with a similar problem to not spend money they may not have on a battery and not fix the issue.

I try to get members to test before going out an just swapping parts, because seemingly identical problems may have different root causes to fix the vehicle.

I just got a new battery for my TSX. I'll do the voltage test while cranking and report back my results, so people have a baseline for this test.

 

Absolutely - that’s why I ended my post by stating to test while the problem was present to determine the cause - not just replace the battery.

Unfortunately, it appears that I’ve been misunderstanding the issue the whole time. hlockquiock (and might I suggest we just start referring to you as Bill ) has been using the term “turning over” which to me means cranking; but it’s clear from your most recent post that you mean it’s not starting. I suppose I should’ve asked for clarification sooner because it would’ve saved everyone time.

With that in mind, my suggestion is to spray a little starting fluid into the intake when the problem is present. If it takes off (even for a couple seconds), this suggests the ignition side of the system is functional and your focus needs to be on the fuel delivery side.

If it still doesn’t start using starter fluid, it won’t take much to just pull the distributor cap and inspect for corroded contacts. Depending on what you find, pulling plugs for inspection/replacement would be next.

 

That's a 4-cylinder; I thought it was a V-6 because of the picture in post #30... But that doesn't matter for most of what we've been saying.

I'll concentrate on the ignition system for now. At the moment I'm too lazy to go back and read EVERYTHING, so maybe this is duplicate. And I don't want to take anything for granted so maybe I'll cover things that you have already checked.

Not sure if it's my imagination but your top photo in post #40 looks like the wires aren't fully snapped down onto the spark plugs. From memory when I had a 1998, the wide flat rubber part should fit down around that raised ridge of the valve cover. Are the spark plugs the correct type?

Have you had the plug wires out from the spark plugs? Is there oil on the wires or down in the holes? There's a gasket down in the hole that can leak oil onto the spark plugs & cause this problem.

An easy way to look for spark leakage is in complete darkness with a cold engine. Open the hood & watch the cap & wires while someone tries to start the engine. Look for arcing, which might just be a dull blue glow. Spray a mist of water (windex bottle) over the cap & wires to see if that causes any glowing or arcing action. If you see anything like that there's really no fixing it except to get new stuff.

Usually the engine will start but misfire & stumble & run roughly because it's not likely that ALL cylinders are misfiring because of the cap & wires. But you never know what you'll find by checking that.

 

Thank so much for your help yall. Gumby my bad on the terms. Ya its not starting. The starter is cranking (?) but the engine isn't starting.

The short version of the problem is twice its had a no start condition. Both times right before a hurricane when there was the beginning of a lot of rain. It has a new battery, alternator, and starter (as of 6 months ago). I had to replace the fuel lines from the tank as they were corroded (a month ago).

I'll get some starter fluid and check for corrosion and then Jim use your technique. Thank again, really appreciate the help.

 

Another thought since you mentioned smelling fuel...

If the fuel-pressure-regulator has a ruptured diaphragm, the vacuum hose will suck fuel directly into the intake manifold and flood the engine. That's another thing to check for a reason it won't start.

 

You all are the best. Thanks so much for sharing all yr knowledge.

So Sunday its sunny and the car starts without problem, after not starting Saturday during hurricane. Seems like rain/water might be issue.
Today i pulled the distributor cap. Looks good inside, no corrosion (pic below). Though the bottom of cap was covered with oil or gunk. Next I pulled the spark plug wires and no oil in the holes. Spark plugs look good. Tonight I started the car and checked for leaking spark with water bottle and there was sparking when I sprayed the distributor cap. It was visible inside the plastic ridge that my finger is pointing to in the picture. So that's gotta be it right?

Is the next step something nice and easy like buy a new cap and put it on?

 

I would say new cap & rotor. Maybe clean the plug wires with soapy water. Solvents can attack the rubber & cause the problem again.

I had almost pointed out the grime on the distributor cap. Once the spark begins arcing across, it etches the surface and then cleaning won't help. Besides, a new cap doesn't cost a fortune.

PS... cleaning the oil off the rest of the distributor body won't hurt.
And even if you have more than 1 thing going on, at least a new cap might make any remaining problem easier to figure out.

LOL every time I click "post" then I think of something else. Get some dielectric grease at the parts store (unless the new cap comes with some). Use a little on the rubber boots of the plug wires, to help seal water out & make it less difficult to get them off next time.

 

hi jim, thanks for the response. i'll do those things. just a knowledge question: the reason for replacing the rotor also is because maybe water has gotten inside there and damaged it? or is it just a good idea to do while you have the cap off on an older car?

 

Sometimes the cap & rotor come as a set. Otherwise it's a good idea because they both are about the same age & about the same amount of deterioration in their materials.

No big deal. If you don't replace the rotor, it's certainly not a big duplication of effort to replace it later.

 

Finally got the parts in. I replaced the cap and rotor. Everything is working fine. I sprayed the cap and spark plug wires with water and there was no arcing, so it seems like the problem is fixed! Thanks to everyone who helped with the long troubleshooting process. I appreciate it.

One follow up question. The gasket that came with the new cap is slightly different than the old one. The old one had two notches on the bottom side. There's a photo below of the old one installed and the new one with the cap on and off and the old one next to the original cap (both caps are exactly the same shape). I couldn't tell how important it was so I installed the new gasket. Should I reuse the old gasket so that it sits in those grooves? I wasn't sure if using the new or old one was erring more on the side of caution.

When tightening the cap down, this screw (below) if I tightened it all the way would actually cause the cap to push away from the base and open a little. I wasn't sure if that might be due to the gasket not being in the grooves like the old one or maybe that's just the nature of the screw/washer.

old gasket installed

new gasket

new gasket with cap on

old gasket and cap

screw not tightened all the way but the cap pretty closed