First time here thank you for having me,

 

I had the dealership put in a used motor in my 2003 Accord with 2000 miles on it. It was going through a lot of oil(more than a quart per 500 miles) and I replaced the PCV which looked and sounded like new. I don’t know if it was the PCV or it was from the engine sitting since 2005 but since the PCV change now no noticeable amount or oil is being lost. Go with a new PCV before anything else.

 

Ok, an update as of 01/23/10, maybe not definitive, I appreciate comments. Again, this is a '98 Accord 5spd manual 4 cyl F23A1 engine, oil changed every 3mo/3kmi, but confirmed oil consumption of 1qt in 800 mi.

I removed the PCV valve: it looked clean, and it rattled. As I said, my invoice from Victory Honda Sandusky service on 01/06/10 indicated that the PCV valve was replaced as part of tune up.

I tried to check the line from the PVC valve to the wide rubber duct leading to the throttle body. I could remove the PVC line to the wide rubber duct, but realized I could not see into the duct from that small opening. Unfortunately, I did not have an allen head wrench the right size to remove the wide rubber duct from the throttle body to see if there was oil in it. I will buy an allen head to fit & check this out.

I removed the radiator cap and the coolant was perfectly clean. The coolant was changed as part of the service relating to the replacement of the timing belt on 01/06/10. That was about 900 miles ago.

I keep the Accord in my garage every night. There was not a drop of oil on the ground.

I had my son start the car on Friday and Saturday, after the car had been sitting for a short period and overnight; there was no exhaust smoke upon start up.

I had my son rev the engine to about 3000 rpm while I watched the exhaust smoke. I could not tell for sure if it was condensation due to cold (mid-30s temp today), or oil smoke. However, I held a folded paper towel up to the exhaust, and it appeared to me there was a slight amount of some gray or black residue on the towel.

Any thoughts?

 

Chris,
Thanks for your post. I've really babied my '98 Accord w/ F23A1 engine, 5sp manual (in terms of service, not driving!), so I'm disappointed about the oil consumption. But the body is great (its always been garaged overnight), I love my wheels (I have OEM machined 7-spoke '93 Prelude SI wheels with 205 60 15 Toyo Proxes TPTs for summer, and right now I have the "five broad raised spoke" wheels that were OEM for a '97 Accord EXV6 with 205 60 15 Conti ExtremeWinterContact tires. On 01/06/10, the dealer said the CV joints, etc looked good. I have a good stereo with Rockford Fosgate Speakers.

But the engine now -- oi. If it is valve stem seals or oil control rings, I want to try to get input on whether the cylinder walls are also likely defective. I'd like to get input on rebuild costs.

But from you I was wondering: How much did the replacement engine cost, parts & installation? How did you go about it? I love how smoothly and powerfully my engine revs, and I'd be bummed if the replacement was not as good. But I worry: I had to go back to the dealer after they repaired my timing belt, because an upper engine mount or bracket was not reinstalled correctly. Can they really do an entire engine replacement? I'm in Chicago & I wish knew a good local place.

turner433

 

I think the engine was $1100. I got it from Spalding Auto Parts in Washington. I am in Michigan and the shipping was a couple hundred but labor at the dealership was over two grand. I had pulling the old motor and changing parts over than I have a lot of troubleshooting for sensors that got damaged, exhaust manifold that leaked, a bad O2 sensor, Changing the oil, trans fluid, recharging the AC.

I wouldn't give up on your old motor just yet.I would try different oil. It worked in 95 which the cylinders had dark areas from overheating(it should use oil). I have read other post where different oil affected the oil consumption. I would ask your dealership if they change to another oil or oil weight. The dealership I worked at used one weight oil for all the vehicles

 

Chris,
I really appreciate your response. My guess is I could not get an engine for less, and I might get a little luckier on installation, but seems to me there is high risk installation would be expensive -- and a risk whether I'd get the kind of engine performance I'm getting now. These vehicles are complicated. I'm just talking here, but maybe I'll just keep replacing oil for another 1 1/2 yrs until son goes to college or until I can't pass an Illinois emissions test w/o exhorbitant repairs then buy... what? Probably a used TSX w/low miles & a 5 spd.

 

And you have checked for leaks ,,,,, and no leaks at all ,, correct ???
does it smoke when you first start the car up ......??.
does it smoke while idling or revving the engine ??

if so ,, what color is it ??

 

I have definitely checked for leaks -- I garage it every day after work -- nothing on the floor. I also don't see anything around the engine. Also, I just had timing belt & related recommended work (including valve cover gasket) and tune up (including new pcv valve) & I think dealer tech would have reported if there was engine oil leak.

I had my son start it up after it sat for only a few hours and after it sat overnight -- no smoke at all.

I had my son accelerate to 3000 rpm several times & could not tell for sure if it was engine smoke or condensation, because it's in mid-30s up here in Chicago. I held up a paper towel & it did seem to get some black or grey soot on it.

I do appreciate everybody's thoughts. I hate to think it's a goner, because I really like it. It revved so nicely & powerfully after the tune up & timing belt replacement (remember, it's a 5spd manual), it was like new.

 

Black/grey soot is normal on cold startup, maybe you can drive it & warm it up then try the rag-at-tailpipe trick again after it's warmed up.

The oil's gotta be going SOMEWHERE, but it's getting to be an interesting mystery...

 

Jim,
Thanks for further response. I don't think I can update the diagnostics until next weekend. I am inclined to think its burning the oil, not sure whether it is valve stem seals or oil control rings on pistons. Then my question generally would be, would these be worth repairing, and specifically, are these parts that fail "in isolation" or, for example, is it likely my cylinder walls are also excessively worn. I already know I would not spend $$ to rebuild this engine. But the car seems to be revving strongly, so I am doubtful that I have a compression problem.