Hello All,

I know this is a common topic, which is typically solved by replacing the main relay, but that really has not helped. It does stall out when temps are a bit warmer, but it does occur when it is cold as well. Not often, everyone once in awhile. I changed the main relay. Honda replaced the ignition interlock under recall, but not the ignition switch. Apparently my vin number does not apply for the replacement of the switch. I bought the car two years ago with 34,000 miles on it, it now has 97,000. At the time the spark plug wires were supposedly new. I have changed the spark plugs many times, I have denso's in there now that have been in for approx. 10,000 miles. Does anyone think that changing the wires would help the situation, or should I change out the ignition switch. I have read that it could be the ignitor as well. My mechanic said that I it is hard to diagnose unless it happens at the shop (not the dealer, but a guy who specializes in Hondas). It doesn't happen all the time, so you know it won't happen at the shop. I am fairly mechanically inclined. I do all my fluid replacements on the honda and my jeep wrangler, so I can do the replacement of these items. I just don't want to be aimlessly throwing money at the car at things that really do not need to be replaced. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Regards,

Charlene

 

I was having the same problem with my accord not too long ago. Change the spark plugs and the distributor cap and rotor if they have not been changed in a while. You can check to see if the rotor is worn down by taking off the cap.

 

Check the plug wires for arcing. Cold start, in complete darkness, look for dull blue glow around wires. That would indicate a need for new wires. Normally Honda factory wires are VERY good, but if yours were replaced by something else, maybe??

This could be the idle control system. Clean the throttle body, especially look for crud in the bore around the throttle plate. Then do the BASE idle setting procedure.

 

I have cleaned the throttle body via spraying throttle cleaner in through removing the air intake. I have done that several times. Pretty much everytime I change the oil. This has been going on for a year or so. I have searched for the base idle adjustment procedure and I have not been able to find it. I will check to see if the spark plug wires are honda or not. I never checked that. I doubt it is the sparks, they are new (only 10,000 miles on them). I think they are double platimum densos if I remember correctly. Changing the spark plugs never improved the situation. I will also look into the distributer cap and rotor. I know since we have owned it that has not been changed out. If anyone has the base idle adjustment procedure I would appreciate it. I do normally idle at just under 1000 rpm...tough to tell notch or two below. But when you come to a stop you just feel the car idle down and shut off. It starts up right away after the stall and doesn't happen again usually in that ride. Thanks for the suggestions.

Charlene

 

Is this a 4-cylinder? Here's the general idea...
(the V-6 is probably kinda similar, but I'm not sure)

The throttle cable cannot hold the throttle open - it must go slack. The mechanical stop screw should just barely hold the throttle plate from wedging stuck closed. Either one of these could have been adjusted by a misguided mechanic.

Find the idle-air adjust screw; usually a recessed screw above the bore of the throttle body.

Engine all warmed up, idling, all electrical loads turned OFF.
Unplug the electrical plug to the IAC valve (backside of the intake manifold).
The engine will want to stall, but nurse it with the throttle to keep it running.
Adjust the idle-air screw for about 550rpm (no that's not gonna be the operating idle).

Turn off the engine, let it cool, reset the ECU (pull fuse #13 at the right-side door hinges).

Now start the engine without touching the gas pedal.
Let it warm up completely without touching the gas pedal.

 

One other possibility to consider.

Does the engine rpm gradually reduce as you come to a stop, and car shudders when stopping? If you've ever forgot to clutch a manual trans car in high gear as you come to a stop, you'll know the sensation. This can happen in an automatic when the lockup torque converter fails to release. Same result as a manual trans w/o clutching; engine chokes down.

good luck

 

Thanks for all the advice. I have narrowed it down to when it does occur. I am in Massachusetts so it still pretty cold, but like I said it does it when its warm too. The stalling mostly occurs when you start the car and really don't let it warm up too long. It never happens to me in the morning, because I warm the car up pretty well. When I leave for lunch, the day is a little warmer, I always forget to really let it warm up. So my first stop sign is not even a 1/8 of a mile from where the car is parked. It tends to slowly shutter and stall out when I stop. I start the car right up, and the problem does not occur again. I have to check with the real driver of the car ( I drive it occasionally). I think this is the only time it really happens. Although, it has cut out while she has been driving it without stopping as well, but that was before I replaced the main relay. It is a 4 cylinder engine. Hopefully, that helps to narrow things down. Jim thanks for the base idle stuff. I might try something with that this friday, its supposed to be in the 50's here, I don't have a garage to work on things.

Thanks again everyone!!!!

Charlene

 

#1 is the idle-air adjustment screw
#9 is the IAC valve.

 

Thank Jim, that graphic really clears where things are!!!! Thank you very much.

Charlene

 

I bought my used 1999 Honda Accord at a car dealership (not Honda) in 2012 and was not told about the ignition switch recall. Previous owner had it replaced in 2009. Honda just replaced free again for me in 2014. But the "Immobilizer Unit" that attaches to the switch and gets the signal from the computer chip in the key is not included in the recall, so I still have the problem. - Also, they do not "upgrade" the ignition switch, just replace it with the same bad design, so it is going to malfunction eventually again. Here is the recall info:
Original Recall from the NHTSA
Model Year(s): 1997, 1998, 1999
Mfr's Report Date:
June 14, 2002
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 02V120000
NHTSA Action Number: N/A
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Potential Number of Units Affected: 1000000
Summary: ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence: WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Notes: CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).