I went through the trouble shoot guide and they all turned out to be okay. There's a voltage going through through the 2nd and 3rd wire, and there was continuity.

 

This just keeps getting better every day guys..we are all learning a good bit from this post...

WheelBrokerAnf

 

I took apart the heating controller and from what I've seen, it doesn't look pretty. Blue/orange residue on some of the pins. It's worth trying the jumper wire fix.

 

Success!!

That little jumper wire fix all the problems, the condenser fan, radiator fan, defrost, and the heating control!

I followed the guide to soldering the jumper wire across the C1 and the 78dl45. Great thread.

Attempt 1: When I tried to put on the housing on the back, it wouldn't screw in.
Attempt 2: Before Re-solder, I bent the jumper wire at a different angle so I can screw the housing back in so it can stay on the board with the housing on. It was a touchy and a little messier since the wire was had more strain from the tight bends.

Just to give you an idea of how much I saved, I went to a shop before I fixed any of this and this is what they quoted me..

PART: PRICE

Heater controll assy: $562
Radiator: $230
Antifreeze/Coolant add: $35
total: $827

Labor Radiator: $166
Labor heating controll assy: $138
Labor + A/C interferes add: $38
total: $342

Parts: $827
Labor: $342
Store Supplies: $30
Tax: $78

Total: $1277

And how much did I spend?
About $5 for a jumper wire kit, and some research. Just in time for the winter. Thanks again guys, you helped me a bunch!

 

Congrats !!!!

Sorry for some of the run around on getting to the "answer" but in the end you got it....should make you feel good. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you and hope nothing else goes wrong.

Thanks for coming back with the fix and most importantly the pics and details. It should help the next person that runs into the issue.

 

I thought I put a fork in it but I just encountered a new problem.

The blowers, and the HVAC is working fine now, but now there's only cold air blowing in the vents even when I have it on heat, and coolant is depleting very quickly. Also, I only see/hear the fans kicking in when I put the A/C or exhaust on.Whenever I drive for 10 minutes plus, I can see and smell the coolant burning off near the radiator. So I top off the coolant in the radiator and backup once every 30 miles. The temperature gauge does not raise, so I know it's getting the coolant and isn't overheating the engine.

My guess the thermostat is stuck in the OPEN. Any other suggestions?
What type of thermostat temp (180 or 195 degrees Fahrenheit) does my 99' Accord EX 2.3 L4 VTEC require?

 

"
Thermostat Test

Replace the thermostat if it is open at room temperature.
To test a closed thermostat:

1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the bottom of the hot container.

1. Heat the water and check the temperature with the thermometer. Check the temperature at which the thermostat first opens, and at which it is fully open.
2. Measure the lift height of the thermostat when it is fully open.
   
   STANDARD THERMOSTAT
   Lift height:
   above 8.0 mm (0.31 in.)
   Starts opening:
   169-176°F (76-80°C)
   Fully open:
   194°F (90°C)

"

 

Just me but it sounds like a coolant leak somewhere. Need to find and address this first.

Then get a new t-stat and o-ring from the dealer.

Fix the leak, install OE t-stat and o-ring. Bleed air from the cooling system using the proper procedure and go.

A leaking cooling system will allow air to get into the system which can/will cause all of the issues you are listing.

I like the OE stats as the seem to fail in the "open" position which is way better than in the closed position.

 

Okai, I'll look for any leaks in the system. Is there an easy way to do this? I looked at some posts and threads of tools that can be bought that pumps water pressure into the radiator which then shoots out of any holes. Would JB weld be advised for the radiator?

 

A radiator pressure-tester is kinda like a bicycle pump with an adapter that fits in place of the radiator cap. You pump up the system and look for leaks. Otherwise, when it leaks while hot, the liquid can evaporate as soon as it leaks, making it difficult to figure out where the leak is.

I would not use JBweld for a radiator, because it can fracture in a brittle manner. Maybe only for a few days while you wait for a mail-order radiator to show up.