2000 Accord EX 6 Cylinder 4 Door
#1
2000 Accord EX 6 Cylinder 4 Door
After driving and the engine gets heated the car stalls when the car is turned off and started again. The car engine turns over and then there is a vibration and shuts down. This seems to happen after driving for long periods of time and when the car starts to cool down. I have to then step on the brake and the gas and then put it in drive but when the car is driving it runs great.
I've taken the car to multiple mechanics but none have been able to find the problem. Based on their feedback, I've changed the main relay, the idle sensor control, thermostat, ignition switch, the temperature sensor, the GPR (i think that's what they called it), and the throttle body but the problem still returns.
I need help!!!!! Or does anyone know of a good Honda Accord mechanic in Brooklyn, NY?
I've taken the car to multiple mechanics but none have been able to find the problem. Based on their feedback, I've changed the main relay, the idle sensor control, thermostat, ignition switch, the temperature sensor, the GPR (i think that's what they called it), and the throttle body but the problem still returns.
I need help!!!!! Or does anyone know of a good Honda Accord mechanic in Brooklyn, NY?
Last edited by Mr.Thomas; 03-23-2010 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Added comment
#2
Are you maintenance items up to date (spark plugs, distributor cap&rotor)? Does you car have a distributor? I am not familiar with the V6 accords.
I would stop by an autozone and have them scan for code(s). Post the code number on here (or if there are no codes stored). They start with the letter P and have four numbers, like P1234.
You should figure out if the stalling is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel. The easiest way to test for spark would be to hook up a test light when the car is stalling and see if there is enough spark to flash the timing light.
I would stop by an autozone and have them scan for code(s). Post the code number on here (or if there are no codes stored). They start with the letter P and have four numbers, like P1234.
You should figure out if the stalling is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel. The easiest way to test for spark would be to hook up a test light when the car is stalling and see if there is enough spark to flash the timing light.
#3
2000 Accord EX 6 Cylinder 4 Door
Hi,
Thanks for your suggestions. The 2000 Accord does not have a distributor cap just coils and crank shaft.
Items replaced:
-Cooling temperature sensor
-Crank shaft sensor
-Main relay
-Electronic ignition switch
-Head gasket (even though no issues with anti-freeze)
-Timing belt
The mechanic I went to said that he thinks the problem is not electrical it's mechanical but he can't find it.
I went back to him today to get the codes and this is what came up. They appear to be cylinder codes but not sure what that could mean.
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
Thanks for your suggestions. The 2000 Accord does not have a distributor cap just coils and crank shaft.
Items replaced:
-Cooling temperature sensor
-Crank shaft sensor
-Main relay
-Electronic ignition switch
-Head gasket (even though no issues with anti-freeze)
-Timing belt
The mechanic I went to said that he thinks the problem is not electrical it's mechanical but he can't find it.
I went back to him today to get the codes and this is what came up. They appear to be cylinder codes but not sure what that could mean.
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
#5
Misfire codes:
P0301 = cylinder 1
P0302 = cylinder 2
etc...
Spark plugs?? How old are they? What kind are they? You don't mention replacing them, only replacing all kinds of other parts. It sounds like they've been throwing all kinds of parts at it.
What kind of other test have been done? Have any of those mechanics measured your compression? (Especially the guy who said it's a mechanical problem...)
P0301 = cylinder 1
P0302 = cylinder 2
etc...
Spark plugs?? How old are they? What kind are they? You don't mention replacing them, only replacing all kinds of other parts. It sounds like they've been throwing all kinds of parts at it.
What kind of other test have been done? Have any of those mechanics measured your compression? (Especially the guy who said it's a mechanical problem...)
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