Hello all, newbie here. I have a 2000 honda accord lx with 2.3 engine and 65,000 miles. It is owned by my 89 yr old mother in law, which I am trying to fix for her. I went to 2 different advance auto parts stores to diagnose CEL light. Was told by both places, that the code was P1457. So after much research throughout this forum, I have narrowed down the problem to the evap canister shut off valve. I will remove the valve from the charcoal canister and test it with a power source to see if opens and closes before replacing it. I have noticed that the canister has a 2 inch section of vacuum line

that appears to have been cut. It runs right next to the shut off valve. Hopefully someone can tell me by looking at the picture, where this section of vacuum hose was supposed to go to. There is the word "tank" on the canister where this section of hose is. But I cannot find where it is supposed to go to, if it goes anywhere at all. Also the part # on the shut off valve solenoid is Denso: 084600-5440. How does that translate into a Dorman part #? Any help you might provide would be awesome. Thanks, Joe.

 

The broken piece of hose looks to be the hose that connects to the two-way valve. The P1457 leak may even be attributable to that. Attached are some Honda TSBs.

 

Hi Redbull-1, and thanks for your quick response to my dilemma. I read through the TSB that you sent, and compared it to my car. I did find

another stub of vacuum line that is connected to the two way valve. More info: The car is always parked outside. It appears that a vacuum line may have been chewed through by some animal. I will replace that section of vacuum line and see if it helps. In addition, I did remove the evap canister shut off valve and tested it off the car. It showed 27 ohms, which according to some videos, is in the acceptable range. However, when I connected a good 9V battery to it, I didn't hear the click of the valve opening or closing. I blew into the valve and didn't notice any leaks. Meanwhile, thanks for your help! Joe S.

 

Try using 12v, see if the valve clicks. When I did that, my valve didn't make noise using jumper wires to the car battery. New valve made a very obvious click and it opened & closed.

And I was curious so I took apart the old valve - the insides were rusted into a non-moving lump.

 

Hi Jim Blake: Thanks for your insight on my evap shut off valve. I did connect it directly to the car battery via jumper wires. I did get an immediate clicking of the valve operating. Very exciting to hear that. After disconnecting the car battery, I put everything back together and found a replacement vacuum line/hose to replace the other chewed up one. Reconnected the battery and everything operates as normal. For now. I will put some driving time on the car and hope that the CEL light stays away. Thanks for your help Jim, and also to Redbull 1.

 

For 2003-2006 Accords, they test themselves for the EVAP system when these things are satisfied.

EVAP system:
Battery voltage above 10.5v
Engine to be left Idling.
ECT coolant temperature between 176ºF to 212ºF (80-100ºC)
MAP pressure less than 6.75psia (46.6kPa)
= (manifold vacuum at least 7.95psi or 55kPa)
VSS speed = zero
IAT temperature between 32ºF to 212ºF (0-100ºC)

I expect the 1998-2002 Accords to do something reasonably similar. So that's how you can ensure that your car is doing it's self-test on the EVAP system.

I posted those things in this thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-codes-28313/