Shop manual suggests otherwise. Typical overhead camshaft, rocker arms, and valve train. Also provides adjustment specs.

A shop manual is cheap insurance against mistakes. Check automanualsource.com for an inexpensive download manual.

good luck

 

Well got home this morning from work and thoroughly sprayed around every spot I could hit with carb cleaner. There was no difference in idle what so ever. Pulled codes and got this: P0301, PO305, PO300, P1399. There were more before but maybe we doing some good. Cleared codes, idled engine until check light returned and got only P0305. Again I cleared and idled and 1st code come up as P1399.
Seems the grinding sound has subsided, I did gouge on it a few times. Lastly I cleared code once again, and was not able to get it to return, though surely it will.
Any idea where to go from here?

 

Oh I did get a shop manual online but seems it is focused on 4 cylinders. Most diagrams are for 4 cyl, yet some good info in it.

 

The automanualsource manual comes w/ the V6 extension which you need.

There is an extensive diagnostic for P0300. Most of possibilites are ignition related or fuel related. I did not find valve adjustment as a recommended fix, however this has fixed quite a few Acura MDX V6's w/ similar valve train as your Accord.

EGR function is listed as a possibility, and these V6's are known to have problems w/ clogging of EGR passages. Suggest starting w/ cleaning EGR passages and EGR valve.

good luck

 

Thanks...going to work on passages next. Will keep ya posted.

 

When I did a internet search for a V6 Accord of your model year with the codes mention and issues you have the only one I found was an ignition coil that solved the problem. Because of the multiple engine miss codes they started out looking for something that affected all cylinders.

 

OK gentlemen, I have found some info on the V6 in the manual I purchased online, didn't look hard enough.
This is where I am at right now. I pulled IM off and the EGR valve. Surprisingly the ports were rather clean, not like I have seen in some videos by no means. Fluid ran right through the passages, no digging out crud. Done a voltage check on the wires going to coils and all tested per manual specs. I have decided to go ahead and do a valve adjustment. Couple of questions but the manual is not that clear. Do I need to remove belts and spark plugs to make the engine more easily to turn by hand? I suppose I need to be turning crankshaft, can this be done with out removing tire and wheel well? Going back with all new gaskets, grommets, tube seals, is there anything else I should do while I'm knee deep in it?

Thanks again for all of your support.

 

It may be possible to access the crankshaft pulley bolt w/ wheel turned to extreme right. There is an special opening in the underbody cover to allow access to turn crankshaft bolt.

Removing spark plugs is not necessary. You will need to pull a bit harder to overcome compression of engine.

good luck

 

OK...got valve job done even though I broke a valve cover bolt in installation. Too strong I suppose or needed a torque wrench. Anyway.. wanna give my helpers a heads.

The tarnish on the back inside valve cover is pretty bad. Would valve adjustment out of spec lead to this or should I be looking elsewhere?

Other than that... all seems OK. Will say this... removing and re-installing new grommets on valve cover bolts are a pain in the bum.

Have pics... but not able to upload at the moment.

 

Were any valves way out of spec, or were all slightly loose?

When you did your compression test, did you pull the fuel pump fuse, unplug the coils, and floor the gas pedal when you cranked the engine?