My honda started to run rough one day on my way to school and the check engine light began flashing. I brought it into Advanced Auto and they checked the codeswhich came up as P0133 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1, P1399 Misfire in Any Cylinder, and P1457 Evap Emissions leak. I bought new spark plugs like the employee recommended and went home and changed them out. The car did not run any better after doing so, so I went and also replaced all the spark plug wires for Autolite Pro Series. The car was still misfiring and idling very rough. Next I went back and replaced the Distributor cap and rotor with it. still no change except now i took the car on the highway to see hoiw it drove and upon returning the car began to stall out at every stop. I finally made it home and decided to wait till the next day and now the car will not start up at all. Im not sure what to try next it seems like Im wasting a lot of money and gettting no results.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I read on a forum that another guy had a similar problem and he just changed the new Autolite wire set he bought with a set of NGK and that fix his problem is it possible that the Autolite wires I bought new just were faulty or dont fit correctly with my car?

 

First of all how many miles are on this car?

Secondly, if I understand you correctly the car will not start right now right? It will turn over but not fire up?

If so you need to find out if you are getting spark. If you have the means of getting a tester get this kind:

Then take a wire off one of the plugs attach this device to the end of the wire (like putting a spark plug in it) then clip the device to a solid ground. After that crank the engine over. If you can see a spark jumping - during the day its easier to hear it, it will sound like a light snaping sound as you turn the engine over - on the device then you are getting spark and it is a fuel issue. If not then we can go further into the ignition side.

 

It will start up but then pretty much instantly its like putts out and shuts off. I have had an issue with the fuel pump previously i never got it repaired but i found that keeping the tank above 1/4 the problem was solved. could the fuel pressure possibly cause the cylinders to misfire as well? I can try the test you mentioned and see what i get

 

oh and it has 160000 miles on it

 

What codes are present now? Any recent work or mods done on vehicle prior to this performance issue?

Suggest inspecting fuel injectors for leaks. Check Fuel Pressure Regulator for diaphragm rupture by pulling vacuum reference line and sniffing. Any fuel smell indicates ruptured diaphragm.

A crude check of fuel pressure is to turn ignition switch to On and crack banjo bolt on the fuel rail. You should get a strong spray of fuel. If weak or no spray, fuel pressure might be the problem. A fuel pressure measurement takes a special fitting adapted to mate the banjo bolt on the fuel rail, unless your model has a fuel pressure tap (not sure). Kits are available on ebay, amazon, etc, but my experience is they will not have the correct parts to adapt to Honda fuel rail.

good luck

 

What issue did you have with the fuel pump?
When it shuts off can you restart it right away?

I have found several people (myself included) had issues with the power supply to the pump. The wires get hot and over time the insulation can break down exposing the core of the wire. The fuel return dumps right over these wires, mine were so corroded that the car would run fine until it got hot, then when I let off the gas (when most of the fuel is being returned to the tank) the car would sputter and stall out and wouldn't start up for about 30-40 mins. I found out that the hot gas going over the exposed and corroded wire was increasing the resistance until it cut out.

Here is a picture of the harness.



Still you need

 

Im not too sure the exact problem with the pump my dad believed that it wasnt working properly and was sucking in rust or other deposits from the bottum of the tank when the level got too low. what happens is the car will beign to start up but it starts to stutter once started up and when i push on the gas it can sometimes start to sound like it is going to run but will just stall out again. After it shuts down i can still try to start it again immediately and it just results in the same problem. right now the only code that is present is the P1399 Misfire.

 

These tanks rarely rust on the inside, plus the filter would stop any deposits from getting "sucked up"

When you replaced the distributor did you replace the rotor as well?
Does the car burn oil?

I'm going to have to think about this one a bit. Could be a bad sensor, inadequate fuel pressure, clogged injectors... just to share some of my thoughts.

 

Could be a problem with the fuel injectors causing the misfire (P1399), as well as the previous P0133.

See TSB:
Honda TSB 00-017