At least from 1998, maybe earlier, Accord did NOT have a separate brake fluid reservoir for the ABS. If you have a manual tranny, the clutch has a separate reservoir for brake fluid.

The power steering fluid reservoir is near the headlamp, with a red cap. It does NOT take DOT3 fluid, it does not take generic fluid. The PS fluid has to say "FOR HONDA".

 

You are absolutely correct JimBlake. I did not have the manuals in front of me when I was typing that. It was for the clutch, not the power steering. Brain-fart on my part. Thanks for clearing that up.

Now, since I already have the code and it is 5-3 (stating that the ABS pump is constantly on), what do you guys think might cause this issue? I'm guessing it's the relay, since it is remaining on, power is continuously provided to the pump. Would this be a correct assumption? Or could it also be caused by a faulty modulator. I have never worked on an ABS system before. Thanks everyone.

 

If ABS pump stays on, this would most likely mean a leak or false pressure sensor reading. Leak is more likely, and in my experience the leak is usually an internal modulator valve that is non-accessible and non-repairable. There should be a list of fault possibilties in ABS section of your manual for the 5-3 code.

I tried to repair a modulator and gave up after disassembling and inspecting. Nothing obviously wrong, but it wouldn't work. Besides, you don't want to fiddle too much w/ a safety-critical piece of equipment.

Solution is likely to replace the ABS modulator. OEM is usually prohibitively expensive (>$2k). However, there is a good supply of used ABS modulators from salvaged cars. I've seen them for $50-$100 frequently for 94-97 Accords. Check car-part.com for your vehicle.

Replacement is usually very simple; disconnect all the brake lines to modulator, release electrical connector, release hold-downs, and remove. A flare tubing wrench is essential to avoid damaging the tubing nuts. I've never done any bleeding since pump will cycle until pressure is maintained, however yours may be different. A shop manual is essential to work on ABS.

good luck

 

Your 94 probably has an ABS fluid reservoir, and bleed valve at the modulator. That system seemed to be a little more susceptible to leaking, too.

The newer ones are much easier (like your 2007). Swap out the modulator for the new one, fill & bleed through the (only) reservoir at the brake master cylinder. Bleeding order is LF - RF - RR - LR.

However, I'd like to see that list of ABS error codes. I'm a lot more familiar with the Integra, where in 1997 Honda began using the new ABS system (with no reservoir). In the Integra world, the list of error code definitions changed COMPLETELY. There were some cases where the same number now had a completely different meaning. Kinda confusing...

ps... I just checked an Integra ABS list & 53 is in the NEW list for motor stuck on. So we're on the right track. Can you hear the motor running? In the new system, I've never heard the motor running to pump up an accumulator. I think it only runs during an actual ABS event.

 

So I tried to just put the car in the ON position. The radiator fan came on pretty loudly, but was unable to hear the ABS pump turning on. I was trying to feel the ABS pump for some kind of vibration, but there was nothing. So, by following the lines from the brake fluid reservoir, it goes directly into the ABS pump, and then (I think) it distributes it to the calipers in each wheel. I didn't follow it that far. Just looking at the lines within the engine compartment. I'll try to provide some pictures later. Perhaps it will give more clues as to what I need to fix/replace. I was able to find some modulators on ebay for a pretty decent price, if I really need to swap it out. It ranges from $50 to over $100. Of course, there is no returns on these items. I just want to determine what is wrong first prior to changing parts. Thanks everyone for your inputs.

 

I have a 95-98 Acura TL shop manual, which has ABS codes for 97-98 TL models. It shows a code 53 "Motor stuck On" also.

Looking at wiring diagram (you may have same arrangement), the most likely reason for fault is ABS pump motor relay stuck in closed position (contacts maybe welded closed). Easy to test by pulling ABS Pump Motor relay (underhood fuse/reay box) and test for short between relay contacts (3-4 in my diagram w/ 1-2 being the drive coil). Other than that it's hard to see how motor could stick in ON position (would require a ABS controller fault).

You need a manual to understand your problem w/ certainty.

good luck

 

So here are the pictures. So from the reservoir, it goes to the ABS pump, and then it goes to what looks like a distribution block. From there, I'm assuming that it goes to each calipers. I have not checked where each lines actually goes, yet. Probably will do that this weekend if I have the time.

Also, I was unable to find any relays for the ABS. I found the fuses; a couple in the under-hood fuse box and one in the passenger side fuse box. All fuses looks good; tested with a multimeter. Although there is a small box to the left of th under-hood fuse box, but there is no labels on it and I'm not quite sure what it is for. I can't find it in either the owner's or Haynes manual. It looks like a relay and I guess it could be for the ABS, but I am not certain. Is it possible that the relay itself could be built into the pump? There are 2 sets of wires connected to it. Could the relay, modulator/accumulator, and the pump be all built into the same unit? Sorry everyone. This is all new to me. I have never had any ABS problems before. Thanks again for your inputs.

 

 

Just for educational value, your 3rd picture ("distribution block") is the proportioning valve.

I think that little fuse box is for the ABS, but don't remember for sure. I sold my 6th-gen Helm book after I sold that car.

 

Thanks for that information. I guess it doesn't hurt for me to pull that relay out and test it. There seems to be 2 of them in that little box. One larger one with a metallic casing and the other is a smaller black one with plastic casing.

According to TexasHonda's post, there should be 4 contact points on the relay. 3 - 4 should be the one that I test for, correct? And if the relays were good, I should not get a reading between those two points unless it is shorted? I'll check it out later.

I'm not sure if this information is accurate, but I was googling some information on the location of the ABS relay and found a generic instruction from eHow.com. I'm not sure if this information is accurate for my vehicle. Is it possible for the ABS relay to be located underneath the steering wheel? Here's the link to where I found that information:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4520612_inst...da-accord.html