2001 Accord LX - AC clutch not working
#22
you are testing the sensor, so one lead on each prong of the sensor.
Here are a few things to practice with your volt meter. Try testing the voltage on the battery. You should get about 12V. With the resistance setting (ohms) check the reading when the two meter leads are touching nothing (open circuit). Then touch the leads together and you should get a very low reading in mohms (closed circuit).
Here are a few things to practice with your volt meter. Try testing the voltage on the battery. You should get about 12V. With the resistance setting (ohms) check the reading when the two meter leads are touching nothing (open circuit). Then touch the leads together and you should get a very low reading in mohms (closed circuit).
#23
Ok.. Was doing it right then.. I got a 1 with a three digit space before the decimal so that must mean it is open and no pressure... Should I press up the system with some refrigerant w/dye to find the leak
#24
That is likely your next step.
Another quick test would be to take the electrical connector for the pressure switch and use a piece of wire or a paperclip to connect both ends. Start the engine. Have an assistant turn on the a/c. If the a/c compressor engages, then have them turn off the a/c immediately.
The other issue that you need to address is the radiator fan. On the thermostat housing there should be a sensor plugged in that has two wires going to it (green and black). The plastic electrical connector should be green (but I'm not sure about this). If you unplug that electrical connector and short it like I described for the a/c pressure switch, then the fans should turn on while the engine is running. Then you can test for voltage to the radiator fan electrical connector.
Another quick test would be to take the electrical connector for the pressure switch and use a piece of wire or a paperclip to connect both ends. Start the engine. Have an assistant turn on the a/c. If the a/c compressor engages, then have them turn off the a/c immediately.
The other issue that you need to address is the radiator fan. On the thermostat housing there should be a sensor plugged in that has two wires going to it (green and black). The plastic electrical connector should be green (but I'm not sure about this). If you unplug that electrical connector and short it like I described for the a/c pressure switch, then the fans should turn on while the engine is running. Then you can test for voltage to the radiator fan electrical connector.
#25
If the system is empty, next step should be a vacuum or pressure test to locate the leak. Some auto-ac shops will perform a leak test and spot the leaks.
If you can introduce more refrigerant, how will you locate the leak? If you can spot as above described, only a leak detector of some type will work. Dye is one option, but requires system to work for a while to distribute dye and stain leak site. Don't operate your system w/o some additional lubricant (1-2 oz) addition and vacuum before charging.
Sometimes leaks are obvious; look for oily/dirty stain around compressor clutch rotation plane, hose crimps, connections, condensor face. If all looks dry, the leak is likely in the hidden evaporator. A sniffer test will sometimes spot this sniffing at the drain tube.
Non-working fan is most likely a defective fan. Neither fan will come on w/ AC command unless pressure switch is closed by jumper as suggested.
good luck
If you can introduce more refrigerant, how will you locate the leak? If you can spot as above described, only a leak detector of some type will work. Dye is one option, but requires system to work for a while to distribute dye and stain leak site. Don't operate your system w/o some additional lubricant (1-2 oz) addition and vacuum before charging.
Sometimes leaks are obvious; look for oily/dirty stain around compressor clutch rotation plane, hose crimps, connections, condensor face. If all looks dry, the leak is likely in the hidden evaporator. A sniffer test will sometimes spot this sniffing at the drain tube.
Non-working fan is most likely a defective fan. Neither fan will come on w/ AC command unless pressure switch is closed by jumper as suggested.
good luck
#26
Ok..I jumped the pressure switch and the condenser fan and clutch came on..I jumped the sensor on the thermostat and the condensor fan came on only. my guess is that the radiator fan is dead....I charged the system with a 11oz can of refrigerant but nothing happened at all. A/C clutch/condensor fan still not coming on..the refrigerant had stop leak, red dye and PAG oil in it.
#27
Results suggest a big leak losing the refrigerant as fast as you introduced. Leak sealant is usually only good to damage the system further and won't repair a large leak for sure.
Did you make any pressure checks?
good luck
Did you make any pressure checks?
good luck
#28
I read the pressure first and it was at zero. I had bought a pressure gauge/refrigerant charge hose. After putting the refrigerant in it didnt seem to have that high of a pressure but didnt know if it was due to only putting 11oz in as the sticker under the hood says it needs 22oz to be full. it was at about 15. Will check again tomorrow and see if it has any pressure left.
#30
Refrigerant pressure is usually close to air temp in degF, so 45 suggests your gauge is way off at 72F. Pressure-Temp saturation chart says 70F = 71 psi. If your charge is very low, there may be no liquid (not saturated) so press-temp relation would not be accurate. Your charge is likely leaking to atmosphere.
I don't know what the low pressure cut-off spec is but it should be lower than 45 psi. I think it's between 20-30 psi.
good luck
I don't know what the low pressure cut-off spec is but it should be lower than 45 psi. I think it's between 20-30 psi.
good luck
Last edited by TexasHonda; 12-19-2012 at 07:14 PM.