I have a power dook lock problem with the right rear door only. It just plain does not work. Power door locks work on other 3 doors just fine. When I energize the power door locks, there is no sound at allfrom the right rear door either. I have not removed the door panel to check to see if the actuator is getting power. Any thoughts? One more thing to note is that I had the battery disconnected a couple weeks ago. Would this cause any issues with the "brains" that run the power door lock (i.e. does something need reset)?

Thanks a bunch!

 

I'll bet that the actuator is dead; but the only way to prove it is going to be remove the door panel and test for power at the connector.
Those actuators have been redesigned by the 'product cheapening dept.'
To top it off; they have designed it so that the whole latch assy has to come loose to get the flippin actuator off. One littlescrew behind the latch.

All together now.... "Thank You Honda Engineers"! !

 

Same problem here on the 2000 LX model. Mine is the right passenger door. Wahlyz, did you get the actuator replaced? By a shop or DIY?

 

I have a 4 door 2003 Accord LX 4 cylinder with a similar issue. The key FOB will not unlock any of the doors, though it will lock all doors except the driver's; it will also open the trunk. The lock at the driver's door will manually unlock/lock all doors, but the driver's lock button will unlock/lock all doors except the driver's.

The power door lock fuse is good, and everything looks good inside the driver's door panel. I am thinking I need an actuator for the driver's door lock?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

R/

Doc

 

As mentioned, door lock actuators are a common problem on Hondas, they are called a pattern failure item, that why the dealer keeps them in stock or they are on national backorder.

EDIT: of course, with any repair, diagnosis should be done first.

 

on the o1 accord sedan the rear door lock actuator hasn't been given the cheapening dept. touch yet. it's actually pretty reliable(insert flame remarks here) and exceptionally easy to change. it's not on the latch, it's bolted to the door frame under the panel and is easily removed and replace in under 5 minutes.

the actuators all run of the pass multiplex in this case, so there is no fuse for any actuators(very odd, i know).
both pass actuators on the same signal line, so if hte pass front works the multplex is fine.

to test remove the two pin connector from teh actuator. you should have power on terminal 1 and ground on terminal 2 when you lock it from the door switch and the reverse when you unlock it.




yeah, the car needs to see a signal for the driver door lock actuator before it will lock the doors using the fob. since the keyless entry is in the driver door lock/window switch, it's possible that you have multiplex failure going on, but it's odd that the doors lock but don't unlock.

i'd start with replacing the driver side door lock actuator.