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2001 Honda Accord Sedan LX Automatic trans. P1164 P1738 P0700 P1167 codes

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  #11  
Old 03-21-2020, 06:34 PM
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The blue (-) and red (+) wires are the wires that power and ground the heater inside the a/f sensor.
 
  #12  
Old 03-22-2020, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
A resistance test doesn't tell the whole story on the condition of an O2 sensor. A volt meter runs a small current through the circuit to determine the resistance. You can get a good resistance reading with low current and have a wiring issue when under load.

A good way to check the PCM/wiring side for the heater circuit is to use a test light on the connector to the O2 sensor. Make 100% sure you are connecting to the correct wires. Tell us the wire colors on the harness side of the connector to the O2 sensor, and we can tell you how to connect the test light.

Here is a video on doing this test as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAQEXmIoKcQ
so how would I test the positive and negative wires with a test light? I only have a probe test light with one clip. Could I use a volt meter to test it too?

Because I tested it with a volt meter before and it was showing like 945 ohms or something like that
 
  #13  
Old 03-22-2020, 09:43 PM
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What kind of test light do you have? It would be helpful if you have a model number and/or number of amps the bulb draws.
 
  #14  
Old 03-23-2020, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
What kind of test light do you have? It would be helpful if you have a model number and/or number of amps the bulb draws.
it’s a “sure bolt” heavy duty 6v/12v/24v circuit tester.

I tested the two wires that you mentioned with the car running and I didn’t get anything showing on the test light for the blue and red prongs. But it did light up on the white one when I was connected to ground and it lit up on the black/white one when I was connected to the positive terminal.
 
  #15  
Old 03-23-2020, 05:03 PM
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The red is the positive, so your light should light up when you connect the other end to ground when touching the probe to the red wire.

You may need to clear/reset the PCM codes for this test to work. Since I don't know the type of bulb that is in the tester, disconnect quickly if the light turns on when testing this circuit.
 
  #16  
Old 03-23-2020, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
The red is the positive, so your light should light up when you connect the other end to ground when touching the probe to the red wire.

You may need to clear/reset the PCM codes for this test to work. Since I don't know the type of bulb that is in the tester, disconnect quickly if the light turns on when testing this circuit.
I cleared the code and tried it again. Still no power on the red wire. The test light does light up when I touch the probe to the white wire though.
 
  #17  
Old 03-28-2020, 12:56 AM
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Finally fixed the problem.
It turns out that the previous owner installed the wrong O2 sensor. The ULEV and nonulev engines have different O2 sensors.
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-2020, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mellofellow
Finally fixed the problem.
It turns out that the previous owner installed the wrong O2 sensor. The ULEV and nonulev engines have different O2 sensors.
Yup, that'll do it. My son's 08 Civic Si just kicked an O2 sensor code, and I informed him his car has California emissions on, which dictates he get a sensor that is CA spec for his car. I told him not to cheap out either and get the right one and get a Denso or NGK version of it (not a Bosch), as they speak Japanese.
 
  #19  
Old 03-29-2020, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by The Toecutter
Yup, that'll do it. My son's 08 Civic Si just kicked an O2 sensor code, and I informed him his car has California emissions on, which dictates he get a sensor that is CA spec for his car. I told him not to cheap out either and get the right one and get a Denso or NGK version of it (not a Bosch), as they speak Japanese.
I just went to pick n pull and got the right sensor for like $16
They have an abundance of Hondas
 
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