Once the tensioner is slacked, the belt slides off sprockets easily. I've never removed sprocket on TB changes I've done.

good luck

 

FINALLY got the sprocket off!!!! It was a real PITA though! I ended up getting a small screwdriver under the woodruff key. Unfortunately, i ended up breaking the key and finally used a gear puller to remove the gear sprocket. Btw, in removing the gear sprocket I placed the claw on the edge of the sprocket instead of the back and chipped a piece. After realizing my stupid mistake I placed the claws properly and it came off successfully. I noticed after removing the sprocket that the woodruff key was practically welded to the gear (geeezzz). I was able to price a new woodruff key ($7 bucks) and gear sprocket ($30 bucks used from EBAY). What a learning experience this was! Lastly, does it matter which way the crank is turned when aligning the timing MARKS? Mine rotates both directions freely. Thanks for all the help!!

 

As long as the camshaft is held at the proper marks, it doesn't matter which direction you spin the crank.

But it DOES matter that you DO NOT turn it all the way around. If the crank is near TDC, then turn it directly to TDC regardless of which direction that is. If you rotate the crank through the opposing position (180-deg away), that would bring the OTHER 2 pistons up and maybe(?) interfere with a couple valves that are slightly open.

 

You don't appear to have a shop manual. You should get one from automanualsource.com (download). It explains procedure for tensioning belt.

IMO, the crankshaft and camshaft should have been aligned to TDC before belt was removed. Any significant movements of crankshaft w/ camshaft fixed is a risk.

Note, crankshaft must be turned CCW on 4-cyl for tensioning the belt and checking for continued alignment.

good luck

 

Thanks! I will download manual. Before running into the problem getting the key out the camshaft was aligned at TDC and the first timing belt was removed. However, in order to remove the 2nd timing belt I turned the camshaft a couple of times to get a better angle to get to stuck key. I haven't removed the 2nd belt yet, but have set the camshaft back to TDC. I just wanted to make sure I didn't screw anything up while turning the crank while the 2nd timing belt was on and if it mattered which direction it was turned? It seems to rotate easier going clockwise.

 

You should remove spark plugs to reduce resistance to turning. This will insure you don't rotate valves against pistons.

good luck

 

will do. Thanks!

 

I took a little pause in completing the timing belt change. I was able to get the lower belt off, but still have concerns about getting all of the pieces of the woodruff key from the slot (see attached photo). I won't be able to get my new key in the slot until I can completely remove the seized remains. I also noticed that the gear (see photo) will not come off. My guess is that it should? If I could remove the gear it would be a lot easier to scrape the rest of the key out. I still have the gear pull tool, but can't gain access to the back of the gear to pull. Any ideas?

http://www.troyldavis.com/accord2001/gearkeyissue.jpg

 

Finally got it off! Had to get behind it with a screwdriver. Looks like the front part of the key was seized and the back was okay. Oh well...added water pump and will proceed to finish the job. Great learning experience! :-) Thanks for all the help!

 

It was completely unnecessary to remove that gear unless you plan on removing the seal. Was that your goal ? It's probably easiest to others in the future to put a pair of vice grips on it and tapping it with a hammer. Also, if you in any way damage the key it's best to replace it no matter what. If that key ever comes loose it will take the entire valve train with it.