2002 Honda Accord coupe V6 J30a motor cranking but not turning over and starting
#1
07-31-2021, 11:00 PM
2002 Honda Accord coupe V6 J30a motor cranking but not turning over and starting
PLEASE HELP. I’ve replaced so much on this car it’s not even funny. It has been 2/3 months since my issues have started… At first it was merely an intermediate starting problem.. so I instantly thought it was the signs of a fuel pump beginning to go on me, had that replaced along with the fuel damper, fuel pump pigtail, fuel pump regulator and the fuel pump relay(probably leaving more parts out too!) so i know there should be no fuel pressure problems or fuel inefficiencies… I also had noticed an electrical problem in my car too. The ignition switch was done in the past AND WAS A MESS. From the wiring that was TAPED and spliced poorly to the unorganized matter it was put away so that the steering column was pulling on the wiring every left turn. I had a professional guy redo all of that and redo the relays so that I knew it would be done right. All that wiring is now snug and done right along with the fuel system being near mint. Put new spark plugs in the car, replaced several sensors(crank, map, Iac, cam, vtec solenoid…etc) I even put in a new starter motor because my old one used to lock up on my occasionally. The car is PERFECTLY IN TIME, cylinder #1 is on the money in top dead center… So the wiring and electrical should be right, the fuel is good and the car is on time. Cranking but NO START. Idk what it could be anymore man. Done several tests on the power to the coil packs with the key in the on position too. I get power to the plugs that plug into the coil pack but I still don’t think I’m getting spark. What could keep me from getting spark? It can’t be the coil packs themselves because then all 6 would have to had gone at the same time. It should still start even with 1 or 2 bad… next thought could be ECM but that’s a pain in the *** and I wanted to see if anyone else would know anything about my problem before I do so. Not to mention the fuses are all good too… please help!!
#4
08-01-2021, 12:33 PM
I don't see why wires were spliced under the dash unless something aftermarket or an accessory was installed. You had the wires cleaned up, but look under the driver's dash and follow any wires that don't look original to a control box that may be a security system.
If you have a code read, check for codes.
Does the starter turn the engine when you turn the key to start the car, but the engine will not run on its own? Or does nothing happen? Trying to figure out if this is a starter issue, or engine issue.
Based on your description, you really haven't eliminated fuel or spark as a culprit. The quickest way for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body, spray starting fluid into the intake while an assistant tries to start the engine. If the engine runs (even poorly) this will indicate a fuel problem.
For spark, you can remove a coil plug from the engine, use a spark tester, then have an assistant try to start the car while you look at the spark tester for spark.
If you have a code read, check for codes.
Does the starter turn the engine when you turn the key to start the car, but the engine will not run on its own? Or does nothing happen? Trying to figure out if this is a starter issue, or engine issue.
Based on your description, you really haven't eliminated fuel or spark as a culprit. The quickest way for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body, spray starting fluid into the intake while an assistant tries to start the engine. If the engine runs (even poorly) this will indicate a fuel problem.
For spark, you can remove a coil plug from the engine, use a spark tester, then have an assistant try to start the car while you look at the spark tester for spark.
#5
08-01-2021, 03:45 PM
I don't see why wires were spliced under the dash unless something aftermarket or an accessory was installed. You had the wires cleaned up, but look under the driver's dash and follow any wires that don't look original to a control box that may be a security system.
If you have a code read, check for codes.
Does the starter turn the engine when you turn the key to start the car, but the engine will not run on its own? Or does nothing happen? Trying to figure out if this is a starter issue, or engine issue.
Based on your description, you really haven't eliminated fuel or spark as a culprit. The quickest way for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body, spray starting fluid into the intake while an assistant tries to start the engine. If the engine runs (even poorly) this will indicate a fuel problem.
For spark, you can remove a coil plug from the engine, use a spark tester, then have an assistant try to start the car while you look at the spark tester for spark.
If you have a code read, check for codes.
Does the starter turn the engine when you turn the key to start the car, but the engine will not run on its own? Or does nothing happen? Trying to figure out if this is a starter issue, or engine issue.
Based on your description, you really haven't eliminated fuel or spark as a culprit. The quickest way for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body, spray starting fluid into the intake while an assistant tries to start the engine. If the engine runs (even poorly) this will indicate a fuel problem.
For spark, you can remove a coil plug from the engine, use a spark tester, then have an assistant try to start the car while you look at the spark tester for spark.
#6
08-01-2021, 03:51 PM
I don't see why wires were spliced under the dash unless something aftermarket or an accessory was installed. You had the wires cleaned up, but look under the driver's dash and follow any wires that don't look original to a control box that may be a security system.
If you have a code read, check for codes.
Does the starter turn the engine when you turn the key to start the car, but the engine will not run on its own? Or does nothing happen? Trying to figure out if this is a starter issue, or engine issue.
Based on your description, you really haven't eliminated fuel or spark as a culprit. The quickest way for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body, spray starting fluid into the intake while an assistant tries to start the engine. If the engine runs (even poorly) this will indicate a fuel problem.
For spark, you can remove a coil plug from the engine, use a spark tester, then have an assistant try to start the car while you look at the spark tester for spark.
If you have a code read, check for codes.
Does the starter turn the engine when you turn the key to start the car, but the engine will not run on its own? Or does nothing happen? Trying to figure out if this is a starter issue, or engine issue.
Based on your description, you really haven't eliminated fuel or spark as a culprit. The quickest way for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body, spray starting fluid into the intake while an assistant tries to start the engine. If the engine runs (even poorly) this will indicate a fuel problem.
For spark, you can remove a coil plug from the engine, use a spark tester, then have an assistant try to start the car while you look at the spark tester for spark.
#8
08-01-2021, 06:59 PM
Yes exactly what I’m testing… and if it were just me and my setup that’s getting invalid results, the car would start because then there’s no power problem… Took apart my carpet today and located my ecm… the wires that I’m losing power to are the exact same ones that go to my ecm… have a feeling it could be my ecm unit
#9
08-01-2021, 09:14 PM
So the blk/yel wire gets power from the ignition switch. I was asking how you had your volt meter hooked up, because the other wire color gets switched from open to ground and the volt meter isn't fast enough to show the switching from 0 to 12V. The 12V would only show for fractions of a second.
Put the red meter lead on the blk/yel wire, and the black meter lead on a good ground (like battery negative), set the meter to voltage, then you can verify if you are missing power to the blk/yel wire. Hope this makes sense.
Put the red meter lead on the blk/yel wire, and the black meter lead on a good ground (like battery negative), set the meter to voltage, then you can verify if you are missing power to the blk/yel wire. Hope this makes sense.
#10
08-01-2021, 09:16 PM
So the blk/yel wire gets power from the ignition switch. I was asking how you had your volt meter hooked up, because the other wire color gets switched from open to ground and the volt meter isn't fast enough to show the switching from 0 to 12V. The 12V would only show for fractions of a second.
Put the red meter lead on the blk/yel wire, and the black meter lead on a good ground (like battery negative), set the meter to voltage, then you can verify if you are missing power to the blk/yel wire. Hope this makes sense.
Put the red meter lead on the blk/yel wire, and the black meter lead on a good ground (like battery negative), set the meter to voltage, then you can verify if you are missing power to the blk/yel wire. Hope this makes sense.