The "ignitor" is what Honda calls the "Ignition Control Module". It's a little solid-state thing inside the distributor. Seems to be something like an isolation amplifier to prevent spikes from the coil from feeding back to the PCM.

(He was asking PAhonda whether the ignitor could cause the issues - I think maybe it could but then it should also throw a trouble code that refers to the ICM)

 

The problem can be anywhere in the distributor, the wiring, or the PCM.

I don't think you need a whole new distributor to fix this problem. Carefully inspect the distributor cap and rotor for obvious signs of damage (cracks, black tracks for arcing).

The most definitive way to test the igniter is to disconnect the blk/yel wire and the wht/blk (or could be wht/blu depending on your engine) wires from the coil. You'll have to remove the distributor cap. Hook up a test light to those wires. Have someone try to start the car. Your spark tester may not work, because the bulb is likely designed for the high voltage running through the spark plug.

I your test light flashes consistently, then the problem is with the coil or the cap/rotor. If the light doesn't flash or flashes inconsistently, then the problem lies upstream with the ICM, wiring, PCM.

If you don't want to go through the testing, then I would get a coil and the igniter from a u-pull-it junkyard, and probably replace the coil first. This is a much less expensive option compared to getting a new distributor.

 

I actually bought a cheap replacement distributor. I'm a single dude who just turned 30 and my family lives an hour away and I work full time. So going to a pick and pull and all that to save a few hundred bucks is not really worth my time right now. I live in a city and the nearest pick and pull is very far away and I'd have to call in a lot of favors to get someone to take me there.

I was going to try to install the new distributor tonight... But I bought the service manual and it sounds like I'm supposed to use some light system to adjust the timing and get it perfect and all that.

I figure I can maybe get it to at least start without doing that step? If I could drive it just a few miles then I could take it to a mechanic. Really I've been working on this myself because the car is worth so little that towing it to a mechanic almost isn't worth it. Also my car is 3 levels down in the basement parking and the roof is really low. Im not sure how many tow trucks would even fit in my garage.

Do you guys think I can swap the distributor myself well enough to get it to start? Do you think the spark was so bad that it was the source of my starting issues?

I'm honestly kind of scared to install it because if it still doesn't work I won't really know what else to look at. I'm very amateur at mechanical work like this.

 

Older accords had slots where you bolt in the distributor and could manually adjust the timing by rotating the distributor using a timing light, then tighten it down. Your 02 does not have that adjustment, because the PCM handles all of the timing adjustment, so you won't need a timing light to install the distributor.

Make sure you remove the distributor cap from the original distributor and carefully note which way the rotor is pointing. Align the rotor in the replacement distributor they same way before installing.

The reason to check the rotor is you can install the rotor 180 degrees off and your car won't start. I managed to do this and I checked the rotor alignment before installing.

 

I'd also bring the engine up to #1 cylinder, using the timing marks on the crank pulley and lower belt cover, then remove the cap, and note where the rotor is pointing. Then when you remove the old distributor, note where the drive dog tangs are (they're offset), so you can re-install the new one the same way. I only mention this, as it's possible to break off the tangs on the distributor, and then you're screwed.

 

Is the #1 cylinder the leftmost cylinder or on the right when looking at the engine from the front of the car toward the hood? I'm not too sure how to bring it to the #1 cylinder but maybe I can figure it out with the service manual. Is there something I need to use a wrench on or do I just crank the engine until it's on cylinder 1?

 

In cars the #1 cylinder is furthest away from the transmission, closest to the external drive belts (alternator, etc). So in your case it's on the left side (drivers side) of the car.

When you're just changing the distributor, I think you only have to pay attention to which direction the distributor rotor is pointing, and match that with the new distributor. The blade on the end of the distributor shaft is offset a little bit from center. That engages in a slot in the end of the camshaft, offset to match.

The offset blade & slot are not too far offset from center, so it apparently is possible to put it in backwards, if you force it. So just be aware of the offset blade and pay attention to the offset slot and you'll be OK.

 

Thanks. Ok, I'm going to try replacing it either tonight or tomorrow. I think I have a good idea of all the ways I could mess it up and how to avoid them. I'm hoping my car will start after this. I didn't realize the distributor is basically the only part that had been replaced on this car and the replacement distributor was the cheapest one you can find anywhere basically. I think based on the videos I took that the spark plugs were not going off correctly and that there's a good chance that's why my engine wouldn't start. fingers crossed I'll be done with this project after replacing this distributor.

 

This shows the orientation of the distributor and the 4 sparkplug wires. If you suspect the old one was installed incorrectly, then go by these instructions so you don't put the new one in wrong. If you're not sure, then post your questions...



The first step, bring the engine to #1 TDC is I think not so important as much as being sure you notice the offset drive blade and slot and get them to match.

 

I installed the new distributor and based on my spark measurement tool it appears to be working. I made sure the rotor was aligned and all that. Unfortunately it still doesn't start.... Ugh, I'm starting to get really frustrated.

I have a list of more things to test:
1. Check fuses under driver dash (already checked under hood)
2. Check for pressure in fuel line (don't have a tool for this. Saw a video where someone just loosened a nut on the fuel line and if fuel sprayed out your knew it had pressure)
3. Check for compression (would need to rent the tool for this at autozone).
4. Check OBD2 (I bought a $10 bluetooth OBD2 scanner on amazon. It never brought up any codes and now says it can't communicate to my ECU. I think it never actually worked properly).
5. Check Timing belt. I've never done this before but I guess if the timing belt is off it would mess things up.

What I've tried already:
1. Had battery tested at autozone. Tested bad. Replaced. Still no start.
2. Replaced sparkplugs.
3. Checked fuses under hood.
4. Tested spark plugs and saw they weren't always firing. Replaced distributor. Still no start.
5.Tried reading codes with OBD2 scan tool but it didn't find any codes somehow. I think it doesn't work. Cheapo scanner.
6. Measured resistance of spark plugs cables. Got 8k, 8k, 12k, 12k. Says to replace if resistance is over 25k so I guess those values are ok?

Any ideas on what makes sense to look at next and if I'm missing anything important? Thanks.