Thanks jim, you've been very helpful.

I had a look at the sliders and piston on the weekend and they all seemed to move freely.

One of the pads was down to pure metal and it had the sticking problem that you seem to have had too, it really was wedged in its place and still was when I put it back in. So i'll try the filing down a fraction of the new pads option to see iif that solves it

 

Thanks jim, you've been very helpful.

I had a look at the sliders and piston on the weekend and they all seemed to move freely.

One of the pads was down to pure metal and it had the sticking problem that you seem to have had too, it really was wedged in its place and still was when I put it back in. So i'll try the filing down a fraction of the new pads option to see iif that solves it

 

Yeah, here's what usually happens...

The brake caliper has plenty of force to apply the brakes even when the pads are sticking. But when you release the brakes, that one wedged pad will still drag on the rotor. That wears down the pad more quickly than the others...

Since the pad was down to metal, check whether it damaged the rotor surface.

 

I was reading that one of the functions of the caliper piston seal is to pull the piston away from the brake pad when the brakes are released and that's why they are square in cross-section rather than circular. Perhaps the seal is not working right considering you've checked the caliper pins are not binding and are properly greased.

 

On my 2003 the pad froze in the bore even with file fitting it and using anti seize. The anti seize had harden it looked like. I am going with something else in the future. When the pad seized it made a strange noise when hitting brakes lightly like a bushing squeak but only part of the revolution of the rotor. A few months after file fitting the second time it is back.

 

Job now done, the slightly ground down pads and wire brushed sitting area work a treat compared to before. The ones that came out needed to free them as there wwas alot of fine debris practically welding them into place. I went for a drive yesterday and at the end of it both rear wheels where the same temperature to the touch so it seems as if they've freed themselves up. If only I'd known it was just a clean up job before I would have got onto it sooner!

As for the rotar (disc as we call them on this side of the pond) I seem to have very slightly warped it, as when it spins it brushes the pads at the same point each rotation. If it were any worse i'd change that too but I think i'm going to live with it.

Thanks again for the help all.

 

That's pretty common anyway; after some miles & some corrosion they're rarely PERFECTLY straight.