2003 Accord 4 Cyl Overheating
#21
Watch this video on how to bleed the cooling system.
Once you are sure there is no air in the system, then you can figure out if you have a leak.
Check at any connection that you took apart when replacing the starter.
Once you are sure there is no air in the system, then you can figure out if you have a leak.
Check at any connection that you took apart when replacing the starter.
#22
Watch this video on how to bleed the cooling system.
How To Bleed A Cooling System - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
Once you are sure there is no air in the system, then you can figure out if you have a leak.
Check at any connection that you took apart when replacing the starter.
How To Bleed A Cooling System - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
Once you are sure there is no air in the system, then you can figure out if you have a leak.
Check at any connection that you took apart when replacing the starter.
How can I do this without the $30 funnel?
#23
Suggest performing a cold system pressurized leak test to find where fluid is going. It could be an external leak (defective water pump, hose, gasket, etc) or defective internal leak (bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head). Considering how many times it's overheated, the later is more likely.
If no visible leaks and pressure of leak test declines rapidly, remove spark plugs and turn engine over to find out which cylinder water is getting into. A geyser of water will confirm.
good luck
If no visible leaks and pressure of leak test declines rapidly, remove spark plugs and turn engine over to find out which cylinder water is getting into. A geyser of water will confirm.
good luck
#24
WARNING - Do not burn yourself with HOT COOLANT
Top of the rad and res. Install the rad cap loosely - first click. Start the car - turn heat to MAX. Let the car run until the fans cycle. Turn the car off, top off rad.
The reason you intall the cap "loosely" - first click - is so that no pressure will build up in the system. Air and some coolant will escape from under the cap when running.
Top of the rad and res. Install the rad cap loosely - first click. Start the car - turn heat to MAX. Let the car run until the fans cycle. Turn the car off, top off rad.
The reason you intall the cap "loosely" - first click - is so that no pressure will build up in the system. Air and some coolant will escape from under the cap when running.
#25
Suggest performing a cold system pressurized leak test to find where fluid is going. It could be an external leak (defective water pump, hose, gasket, etc) or defective internal leak (bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head). Considering how many times it's overheated, the later is more likely.
If no visible leaks and pressure of leak test declines rapidly, remove spark plugs and turn engine over to find out which cylinder water is getting into. A geyser of water will confirm.
good luck
If no visible leaks and pressure of leak test declines rapidly, remove spark plugs and turn engine over to find out which cylinder water is getting into. A geyser of water will confirm.
good luck
I will be doing this as soon as I can. Could I have somehow caused a leak into the cylinders by uninstalling and reinstalling the intake manifold?
#26
WARNING - Do not burn yourself with HOT COOLANT
Top of the rad and res. Install the rad cap loosely - first click. Start the car - turn heat to MAX. Let the car run until the fans cycle. Turn the car off, top off rad.
The reason you intall the cap "loosely" - first click - is so that no pressure will build up in the system. Air and some coolant will escape from under the cap when running.
Top of the rad and res. Install the rad cap loosely - first click. Start the car - turn heat to MAX. Let the car run until the fans cycle. Turn the car off, top off rad.
The reason you intall the cap "loosely" - first click - is so that no pressure will build up in the system. Air and some coolant will escape from under the cap when running.
Thanks! How long should it take before the fans run? I live in Texas and it is over 100 degrees everyday.
#28
Instructions on changing coolant, air bleeding/purging are in the owner's manual. Since the heater valve is motorized, you'll have to turn the Ignition to ON (II) and then turn the temperature control to high to open the valve.
#29
You don't need that funnel; but, I have the Lisle no-spill funnel and like it. I use it on all the cars I change the coolant on (e.g., older and newer model Hondas, Toyotas, etc.). It does make it a little easier and faster on air purging.
#30
I used a locking funnel fits pretty well into the radiator neck. Most parts stores have them.
Some coolant will leak out of the bottom. I would use a turkey baster to remove coolant once it gets past the neck of the radiator.
Some coolant will leak out of the bottom. I would use a turkey baster to remove coolant once it gets past the neck of the radiator.