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2003 Accord 4 Cyl Overheating

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  #21  
Old 09-02-2012, 11:01 PM
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Watch this video on how to bleed the cooling system.


Once you are sure there is no air in the system, then you can figure out if you have a leak.

Check at any connection that you took apart when replacing the starter.
 
  #22  
Old 09-03-2012, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Watch this video on how to bleed the cooling system.

How To Bleed A Cooling System - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

Once you are sure there is no air in the system, then you can figure out if you have a leak.

Check at any connection that you took apart when replacing the starter.
There is no bleeder valve on the 03 Accord right?

How can I do this without the $30 funnel?
 
  #23  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:32 AM
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Suggest performing a cold system pressurized leak test to find where fluid is going. It could be an external leak (defective water pump, hose, gasket, etc) or defective internal leak (bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head). Considering how many times it's overheated, the later is more likely.

If no visible leaks and pressure of leak test declines rapidly, remove spark plugs and turn engine over to find out which cylinder water is getting into. A geyser of water will confirm.

good luck
 
  #24  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:37 AM
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WARNING - Do not burn yourself with HOT COOLANT

Top of the rad and res. Install the rad cap loosely - first click. Start the car - turn heat to MAX. Let the car run until the fans cycle. Turn the car off, top off rad.

The reason you intall the cap "loosely" - first click - is so that no pressure will build up in the system. Air and some coolant will escape from under the cap when running.
 
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  #25  
Old 09-03-2012, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
Suggest performing a cold system pressurized leak test to find where fluid is going. It could be an external leak (defective water pump, hose, gasket, etc) or defective internal leak (bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head). Considering how many times it's overheated, the later is more likely.

If no visible leaks and pressure of leak test declines rapidly, remove spark plugs and turn engine over to find out which cylinder water is getting into. A geyser of water will confirm.

good luck

I will be doing this as soon as I can. Could I have somehow caused a leak into the cylinders by uninstalling and reinstalling the intake manifold?
 
  #26  
Old 09-03-2012, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
WARNING - Do not burn yourself with HOT COOLANT

Top of the rad and res. Install the rad cap loosely - first click. Start the car - turn heat to MAX. Let the car run until the fans cycle. Turn the car off, top off rad.

The reason you intall the cap "loosely" - first click - is so that no pressure will build up in the system. Air and some coolant will escape from under the cap when running.

Thanks! How long should it take before the fans run? I live in Texas and it is over 100 degrees everyday.
 
  #27  
Old 09-03-2012, 09:21 AM
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Given your location and temp - ~20 min - keep an eye on the gauge during this time.
 
  #28  
Old 09-03-2012, 09:37 AM
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Instructions on changing coolant, air bleeding/purging are in the owner's manual. Since the heater valve is motorized, you'll have to turn the Ignition to ON (II) and then turn the temperature control to high to open the valve.
 
  #29  
Old 09-03-2012, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by upintheclouds90
There is no bleeder valve on the 03 Accord right?

How can I do this without the $30 funnel?
There is no bleeder valve on the 03 Accord.

You don't need that funnel; but, I have the Lisle no-spill funnel and like it. I use it on all the cars I change the coolant on (e.g., older and newer model Hondas, Toyotas, etc.). It does make it a little easier and faster on air purging.
 
  #30  
Old 09-03-2012, 12:19 PM
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I used a locking funnel fits pretty well into the radiator neck. Most parts stores have them.

Some coolant will leak out of the bottom. I would use a turkey baster to remove coolant once it gets past the neck of the radiator.

 


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