Hi All,
since about two weeks I noticed that my A/C is not working anymore.
when I hit the A/C button the typical click is not there anymore and it looks like if the clutch of the compressor is not engaging.
I checked already the power on the single blue wire to the compressor an I have 14volt. The cooling fan is running as well. Even if I turn of the A/C, I still got 14 volt on the compressor and the fan keeps running.
I pulled the A/C relay and no more power to the compressor, pulled the fan relay, fan stopped working.
How comes that I cannot turn off the power to the compressor?
Is the clutch coil burned and needs to be replaced? (I actually noticed a burning smell about a week before I noticed that the A/C stopped working)

Thanks for your help...
smudo73

 

Is the "outer plate" of the compressor not turning with the pulley.."and it looks like if the clutch of the compressor is not engaging?" I think this is what you are saying, sorry, just want to be sure....if so then yes something is up in the coil/clutch of the compressor....getting power in and not engaging.

 

On my 03 (V6) the compressor clutch and stator (coil) had to be replaced recently for the same symptoms.

 

Try rapping the clutch plate firmly w/ a stick (careful!). If the clutch engages and runs temporarily, the problem is too large clutch plate gap. This prevents the magnetic field from coil closing the clutch on demand.

Fix requires accessing the compressor clutch plate, removing the retaining bolt, remove the clutch plate, remove a single shim (thinnest probably) from behind the clutch plate, reinstalling and checking the clutch plate gap. Spec is 14-24 mils (0.35-0.6mm). It may be possible to do this in place (ac charge recovery not req'd) by removing alternator to access compressor, removing compressor mount bolts, and repositioning compressor for access.

Another possibility is an open clutch coil. Check resistance w/ a good volt-ohm meter. It should be about 4 ohms.

Since you have power to the compressor, it should close so one of above is source of your problem.

Note, clutch coil can be replaced, but it may be cheaper to find a good used compressor via ebay or car-part.com. Replacing clutch coil will require removal of compressor, which requires recovery of AC charge, and recharging afterwards.

good luck

 

Hello. First, I ask for forgiveness if the answer to my question is in the DIY or forum. I searched for 20 min and didnt find the info I was looking for.

Our problem: Our AC on our 03 Accord quit while we were idling in traffic. Dealership said the clutch and the coil (I presume the coils is actually the stator according to a honda parts website, part #38924-RAA-A01) need to be replaced. Quote was $800+ (talk about feeling screwed big time) and said no thank you and paid the $100 diagnosis fee (got screwed a little). I asked service adviser if the sytem still has refrigerant in it. He said no because it leaked due to the bad coil and clutch. I plan to replace the clutch and coil myself ($150 part) since I'm mechanically inclined and have the service manual.

My questions

1. Why would the refrigerant leak if you have a bad clutch and coil? Those two pieces are separate from the compressor that pumps the refrigerant. Coil pulls in the clutch that pulls in the pulley thats being turned by the drive belt. I envision that the ac compressor has some sort of socket (female) that receives the clutch shaft (male portion) after its pulled by the coil. So where would the leaking part come from? Can somebody please educate me on where I am mis-understanding the basics of ac compressor.
2. If you guys were me, would you go ahead and replace the entire compressor assembly that includes the clutch and coil. The price of the entire assembly is $350. I'm concerned that if there is a leak, its actually from the compressor and I might be better off by replacing the whole assembly rather than just replace the coil and clutch. In other words im giving the service adviser some credibility that there is certainly something leaking. What do you experts think/advise?

 

Test it? If you have a volt meter and the manual, test the voltage to the coil. Then test the resistance of the coil. If out of spec, then replace. If the whole compressor is replaced, there is more involved-dryer,ect. Which goes to the next part.

Now as far as the pressure in the system? If the system is not working, they must have checked the static pressure, do you have a gauge set to test the same.

 

A failed clutch coil (see above explanation for too large clutch gap which is possible also) should no cause loss of refrigerant.

It may be possible to repair in place w/o discharging, but I don't know that to be the case. It looks like some major parts removal will be necessary in any case.

Get a shop manual. Check automanualsource on ebay for a good emanual for $21.99.

good luck

 

I'm the owner of a 2003 Accord/2.4L engine. Problem: no A/C cooling. I isolated the problem to the clutch coil from the following indications when the AC is turned on: armature disc/hub is not turning, therefore not engaged; the load on the engine is very small, indicating that only A/C fan is on, and the compressor is Not engaged; voltage measured normal on the coil mating connector contact; with engine Off, measured an Open between coil connector contact and Ground, which should measure approximately 4 ohms.
In summary; with an open coil, there is no electromagnetic field to pull in the armature disc/hub to engage the compressor, resulting in no high pressure in the system.

 

I'm not really able to help with your situation, I just found your post ironic as I just came in from outside where it is currently about -2°F.