2003 Honda Accord LX Not blowing air
#11
06-17-2010 | 07:20 PM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
I'll check on that in the manual but the chilton manual I have isn't too in depth on testing. It's more on diagrams.
Yes the resistor is easy to replace, bc I took it out to visually inspect it. I just didn't want to end up throwing away money in the end unless places like AutoZone & others would take that part back?
One thing I forgot... the other day I took a circuit tester to the resistor and the ground had no voltage running through it on any fan speed. The positive had voltage when car was in start (II), then the other two skinnier wires had power when the fan was turned on. Excuse me for being naive, but is this something I should be concerned about?
Yes the resistor is easy to replace, bc I took it out to visually inspect it. I just didn't want to end up throwing away money in the end unless places like AutoZone & others would take that part back?
One thing I forgot... the other day I took a circuit tester to the resistor and the ground had no voltage running through it on any fan speed. The positive had voltage when car was in start (II), then the other two skinnier wires had power when the fan was turned on. Excuse me for being naive, but is this something I should be concerned about?
#13
06-17-2010 | 07:33 PM
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
Oh I don't remember off the top of my head and my fiance has the car right now, but I THINK the Positive was a think blue wire, the negative a thick black wire... and then the other two skinnier wires were both blue... 1 with a black stripe and one with a white stripe
#14
06-17-2010 | 08:20 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,995
From: Houston, TX
Ok, there is an 04 Acura TSX shop manual that you can download from the spooner link in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section. The resistor is the same between your car and the TSX, so the testing should be the same. The Acura shop manual calls it a transistor.
The HVAC pdf has the wiring diagram on page 29. The wire colors may be different, so you will have to determine which wire is which in your car.
From what I can tell, you want to check that you have voltage to one of the two pins to the blower motor with the key on. The other wire (note the color) will go to the resistor. If you turn off the key, ground that second wire color at the resistor connector, then turn on the key, the blower motor should turn on. The blk? wire at the resistor should have continuity to ground.
If you look for the power transistor test (pg 109), you want to check the resistance between the pin 4 and 3. If it is not between 1.4 and 1.5 kohms, then you should replace the resistor. Pin 4 has the wire color noted, but I am not sure about the wire color going to pin 3. The diagram of the connector should help you figure out what it is.
The HVAC pdf has the wiring diagram on page 29. The wire colors may be different, so you will have to determine which wire is which in your car.
From what I can tell, you want to check that you have voltage to one of the two pins to the blower motor with the key on. The other wire (note the color) will go to the resistor. If you turn off the key, ground that second wire color at the resistor connector, then turn on the key, the blower motor should turn on. The blk? wire at the resistor should have continuity to ground.
If you look for the power transistor test (pg 109), you want to check the resistance between the pin 4 and 3. If it is not between 1.4 and 1.5 kohms, then you should replace the resistor. Pin 4 has the wire color noted, but I am not sure about the wire color going to pin 3. The diagram of the connector should help you figure out what it is.
#15
06-17-2010 | 11:16 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
First, check to see that the WHT/BLU wire at the blower motor is getting battery voltage when the key is ON.
Under-hood fuse box:
fuse #22 (100A)
fuse #21 (40A)
fuse #23 (50A)
Under-dash fuse #30 (7.5A)
Under-hood fuse box; find the blower motor relay. As you stand in front of the car it's back row just left of center. Blades are arranged like this:
- (pin #1)
- (pin #2)
| | (pins 3 & 4)
Top 2 pins (1&2) they should have continuity between them when you apply battery voltage across the other 2 pins (3&4). You can swap this relay with others having the same configuration of pins (for example the power-socket relay).
The power transistor is on the ground side of the blower circuit, so do the above checks first.
Unclip the wire from the blower power transistor. For some strange reason they're different for 2-door & 4-door cars.
2-door - measure resistance between the 2 wires closest to the lock/latch of the plug.
4-door - measure resistance between the 2 wires farthest from the latch.
Should be between 1.4k - 1.5k ohms.
2nd part of the test... Remove the #1 wire (4-door) {#4 wire on a 2-door} from the plug (should be BLU/YEL). Insulate it from ground & then re-connect the plug without that wire. Supply battery voltage into the empty socket where that blu/yel wire came from. Key ON, the blower should run.
One more thing...
The black wire that goes to the power transistor is ground. Measure resistance from that wire to a good body ground.
Under-hood fuse box:
fuse #22 (100A)
fuse #21 (40A)
fuse #23 (50A)
Under-dash fuse #30 (7.5A)
Under-hood fuse box; find the blower motor relay. As you stand in front of the car it's back row just left of center. Blades are arranged like this:
- (pin #1)
- (pin #2)
| | (pins 3 & 4)
Top 2 pins (1&2) they should have continuity between them when you apply battery voltage across the other 2 pins (3&4). You can swap this relay with others having the same configuration of pins (for example the power-socket relay).
The power transistor is on the ground side of the blower circuit, so do the above checks first.
Unclip the wire from the blower power transistor. For some strange reason they're different for 2-door & 4-door cars.
2-door - measure resistance between the 2 wires closest to the lock/latch of the plug.
4-door - measure resistance between the 2 wires farthest from the latch.
Should be between 1.4k - 1.5k ohms.
2nd part of the test... Remove the #1 wire (4-door) {#4 wire on a 2-door} from the plug (should be BLU/YEL). Insulate it from ground & then re-connect the plug without that wire. Supply battery voltage into the empty socket where that blu/yel wire came from. Key ON, the blower should run.
One more thing...
The black wire that goes to the power transistor is ground. Measure resistance from that wire to a good body ground.
Last edited by JimBlake; 06-17-2010 at 11:23 PM.
#16
06-17-2010 | 11:29 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
For the blower motor itself...
WHT/BLU is power. Should always be energized when key is ON.
BLU/BLK goes to the power transistor for speed control.
For the blower power transistor...
BLU/BLK is the wire coming directly from the blower motor. It'll be energized when unplugged & key ON. Touch it to ground (only for a moment) to check the motor runs (full speed).
BLU/RED & BLU/YEL both go to a solid-state circuit within the audio/HVAC control panel. That must be driven somehow by the blower-speed control ****.
BLK is ground.
WHT/BLU is power. Should always be energized when key is ON.
BLU/BLK goes to the power transistor for speed control.
For the blower power transistor...
BLU/BLK is the wire coming directly from the blower motor. It'll be energized when unplugged & key ON. Touch it to ground (only for a moment) to check the motor runs (full speed).
BLU/RED & BLU/YEL both go to a solid-state circuit within the audio/HVAC control panel. That must be driven somehow by the blower-speed control ****.
BLK is ground.
#17
06-20-2010 | 12:07 AM
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
So on Friday afternoon I took it to a repair shop down the street. They jumped the blower motor directly to the battery and it was working fine. They also jumped the compressor (since it was also not turning) and it was also working fine. He also confirmed that the resistor's ground did not have any voltage. They said it was something electrical, but needed more time to figure out exactly what the issue was.
The guy showed me the electrical wiring diagram for the car today and showed me how far he had gotten.
He also pointed out the odd fact that the compressor and blower motor were not turning on yet they don't share any of the wiring.
He's still going to look for the issue, but the main problems would be bad control panel unit, bad ecm, or bad wires somewhere.
So, it's actually TWO issues and not just one. Anyone ever seen this problem before? I know I haven't.
The guy showed me the electrical wiring diagram for the car today and showed me how far he had gotten.
He also pointed out the odd fact that the compressor and blower motor were not turning on yet they don't share any of the wiring.
He's still going to look for the issue, but the main problems would be bad control panel unit, bad ecm, or bad wires somewhere.
So, it's actually TWO issues and not just one. Anyone ever seen this problem before? I know I haven't.
#18
06-20-2010 | 07:31 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
He confirmed that the resistor's ground didn't have any voltage... It's not supposed to have any voltage. Did he measure resistance from that wire to ground?
Were they going to do the checks I listed? Those came from the factory shop manual.
Were they going to do the checks I listed? Those came from the factory shop manual.
#19
06-20-2010 | 11:03 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,754
From: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
like Jim says , a ground IS NOT suppose to have voltage. if it had it is what is called a short and would blow a fuse ,,,,,,,,,
By the way is this shop a place that specializes on Hondas ?? if not , take to to a place that specializes on Hondas ..
on the resistor, unplug the connector ,, get a paper clip, or anything you can jump 2 wires together ,, turn the key on jump the BLACK and the BLUE/BLACK wires together if blower works it means that the power side of the circuit is ok,, AND you got a bad resistor,, it will only work at 1 speed cause you are bypassing the resistor ( Honda parts might call it a power transistor ) ..
It it still does not work,, than there is more diagnose to do ,,
try and let us know ..
By the way is this shop a place that specializes on Hondas ?? if not , take to to a place that specializes on Hondas ..
on the resistor, unplug the connector ,, get a paper clip, or anything you can jump 2 wires together ,, turn the key on jump the BLACK and the BLUE/BLACK wires together if blower works it means that the power side of the circuit is ok,, AND you got a bad resistor,, it will only work at 1 speed cause you are bypassing the resistor ( Honda parts might call it a power transistor ) ..
It it still does not work,, than there is more diagnose to do ,,
try and let us know ..
#20
07-29-2010 | 06:45 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
hey guys. this is my first post and thank you for starting this thread.
I have the same exact problem. My first attempt at fixing this was to replace the climate control since everything (or so i think) else seemed to work when jumped. I will be returning the climate control as soon as i have someone else check a few things but i am looking into this blower motor resistor you speak of. I will post again as soon as i find out a solution to my problem. but i will keep checking this forum in case a solution was found. (cause a car with no a/c SUX)
again ( no air coming through the vents when i switch on the ac and or heater)
Thanks
Juan
I have the same exact problem. My first attempt at fixing this was to replace the climate control since everything (or so i think) else seemed to work when jumped. I will be returning the climate control as soon as i have someone else check a few things but i am looking into this blower motor resistor you speak of. I will post again as soon as i find out a solution to my problem. but i will keep checking this forum in case a solution was found. (cause a car with no a/c SUX)
again ( no air coming through the vents when i switch on the ac and or heater)
Thanks
Juan