This car also as 238,000 miles

So far what I have done, replaced the alternator, starter a couple weeks ago, and now i replaced the ignition switch, will be replacing the Relay for ECU and IG coil as well.

Battery is fine checked the voltage on it.


When i open my door there is no power to it not even a ding.

i used to get a clicking sound before i replaced the ignition switch. that is gone now.

The only way i could get a code was by using my portable power pack setting on the jump mode and it gave me power to get the code off.

When I jump my car it can run, i took of the positive terminal while it was running to make sure it wasn't my new alternator i just put it. It stays running without the positive terminal connected.

As soon as I press the break sometimes or switch into reverse, or turn on the lights it immediately dies. I then have 0 power in my car the dash doesn't light up or anything. When i have the lights on in the car they are immediately dim.

I am thinking my 100 Amp fuse wouldn't be the issue because if it was i wouldn't be able to run anything.

Usually the lights that popped out was the TCS / \ ABS and BREAK light. Since i replaced the Ignition switch those codes went away.

now it shows the Oil light, battery when it dies for a sec. Some times it shows just he TCS and ABS light.

Car will run when it gets jumped but if i do anything else it dies also looks like the light seems to flicker while running?

Anyone got any other ideas?

Could I also have 2 batteries that are bad?

 

I also just noticed if i leave my lights on nothing in the car makes noises but in the engine fuse box it is making a clicking noise. I haven't tried to leave my lights on with the fuses and pull one out at a time. but it seems to be the box next to it. The box highlighted in yellow is where the clicking sounded like it was coming from. also is there a specific name for it lol. I am thinking the relay box??

 

This car also as 238,000 miles

So far what I have done, replaced the alternator, starter a couple weeks ago, and now i replaced the ignition switch, will be replacing the Relay for ECU and IG coil as well.

Battery is fine checked the voltage on it.


When i open my door there is no power to it not even a ding.

i used to get a clicking sound before i replaced the ignition switch. that is gone now.

The only way i could get a code was by using my portable power pack setting on the jump mode and it gave me power to get the code off.

When I jump my car it can run, i took of the positive terminal while it was running to make sure it wasn't my new alternator i just put it. It stays running without the positive terminal connected.

As soon as I press the break sometimes or switch into reverse, or turn on the lights it immediately dies. I then have 0 power in my car the dash doesn't light up or anything. When i have the lights on in the car they are immediately dim.

I am thinking my 100 Amp fuse wouldn't be the issue because if it was i wouldn't be able to run anything.

Usually the lights that popped out was the TCS / \ ABS and BREAK light. Since i replaced the Ignition switch those codes went away.

now it shows the Oil light, battery when it dies for a sec. Some times it shows just he TCS and ABS light.

Car will run when it gets jumped but if i do anything else it dies also looks like the light seems to flicker while running?

Anyone got any other ideas?

Could I also have 2 batteries that are bad?



I also just noticed if i leave my lights on nothing in the car makes noises but in the engine fuse box it is making a clicking noise. I haven't tried to leave my lights on with the fuses and pull one out at a time. but it seems to be the box next to it. The box highlighted in yellow is where the clicking sounded like it was coming from. also is there a specific name for it lol. I am thinking the relay box??

 

It sounds like you don't have enough voltage/amps from the battery. Now this can be from a bad battery or issues with the battery cables/connections. Don't rule out battery cable issues without testing, because they can easily be overlooked.

A quick battery test is to have a fully charged battery. Measure the voltage across the battery posts, then turn on the headlights. A battery will read ~12.6V, then slowly drop in voltage as it discharges. If you get a sudden drop to 10.4, or 8.2, then you have a dead cell in the battery (each cell provides ~2.2V). A sudden drop to any other value would still indicate an overall issue with the battery.

The other test to try is to do a voltage drop test. Very easy, but you'll need an assistant. Measure the voltage from the + battery post to the + connection at the fuse box. Have an assistant try to start the car. The voltage should be close to zero (>0.5V). Do the same test from battery + to the large alternator post, also the = battery post to where the battery grounds to the radiator support/frame. Also the - battery post to the engine block. You want to make sure you have low voltage across a single with when trying to draw current. High voltage means you have resistance inside the wire or a poor corroded connection. Try cleaning those connections by unbolting, then clean with a wire brush or sandpaper, then reattach.