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2004 Manual Transmission Help

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  #11  
Old 06-29-2012, 08:02 AM
JimBlake's Avatar
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If the reservoir is full & not losing inventory, then maybe the master cylinder is going. Similar to brakes that sink to the floor under low/steady pressure, the master cylinder can leak back into its own reservoir so the fluid doesn't leak OUT.

First you need to rule out mis-adjusted pushrod at the pedal. I don't have that Helm book any more otherwise I'd give you details about the pedal-height adjustment.

Have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder. You'll see the slave pushing the throw-out lever back & forth. The pushrod should move back & forth about 12mm.

After pumping, have your helper hold the clutch pedal down to the floor for a long time - like 5 minutes. The throw-out lever SHOULD NOT creep back towards the slave cylinder.
 
  #12  
Old 06-29-2012, 08:30 PM
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the master cylinder was replaced 2 years ago.
i will preform your suggested procedure and report back. thank you!
 
  #13  
Old 07-22-2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
If the reservoir is full & not losing inventory, then maybe the master cylinder is going. Similar to brakes that sink to the floor under low/steady pressure, the master cylinder can leak back into its own reservoir so the fluid doesn't leak OUT.

First you need to rule out mis-adjusted pushrod at the pedal. I don't have that Helm book any more otherwise I'd give you details about the pedal-height adjustment.

Have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder. You'll see the slave pushing the throw-out lever back & forth. The pushrod should move back & forth about 12mm.

After pumping, have your helper hold the clutch pedal down to the floor for a long time - like 5 minutes. The throw-out lever SHOULD NOT creep back towards the slave cylinder.
everything appeared OK.

update: i drove it today and discovered the following:

after a long depress of the clutch pedal at a red light, the pedal stayed depressed to the floor when i released it. i had to pull it back by hand. then interminently the clutch felt weak then OK. it's the strangest thing.

the clutch cylinder was replaced two years. the symptom seems very similar, except this time, sporadic.

thoughts?
 
  #14  
Old 07-23-2012, 10:06 AM
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That description seems to fit with air in the clutch hydraulic system. Did you bleed your clutch? Or just inspect it to find everything appears OK?
 
  #15  
Old 07-23-2012, 08:13 PM
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No I didn't. Do you preform this the same way you bleed the brake system? What type of fluid is used for the clutch...brake?

Thanks.
 
  #16  
Old 07-23-2012, 08:54 PM
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It is brake fluid.

Your problem sounds like a clutch hydraulic problem. Either the master or the slave cylinder.

What brand did you use for the master cylinder last time?
 
  #17  
Old 07-25-2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
What brand did you use for the master cylinder last time?
i'm not sure of the brand. it was replaced by a repair shop.

do you think bleeding will work or replacement?
 
  #18  
Old 07-25-2012, 08:33 PM
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Here is a video on how to replace the clutch hydraulics. The end of the video shows how to bleed the system.

Brake fluid is pretty cheap, so it is worth a shot to try bleeding the system.

 
  #19  
Old 09-21-2012, 07:03 PM
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Hello again Honda gurus!

I bled the system and it didn't give me a pedal. The slave cylinder was replaced about a year ago. How do I determine which cylinder to replace?
 
  #20  
Old 09-21-2012, 07:51 PM
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If it were me, I would replace both. I know that my aftermarket slave cylinder on my 95 accord lasted 1-2 years (went out on the PA turnpike). The OEM replacement master cylinder was still on my car when I sold it.

The OEM ones lasted for about 10-12 years.

I know the OEM costs more, but they seem to be more reliable.
 
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